Guidelines on Belaying

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 2:50 pm

acacongua wrote:
pigsteak wrote:I have been at this climbing thing for 13 years now, and bet I haven't seen 4-5 injuries total....
Sounds like you don't get out enough, Pigsteak. In my two years of climbing, I have seen many ankle injuries.

I've been climbing with Pigsteak for about 8 years and he is one of the safest partners I've ever had...that's probably why he doesn't see many injuries on routes...you newbies scare me..

Post by **acacongua** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 3:13 pm

rhunt, Saying that I've seen many injuries does not mean that I was part of that climbing team. It's too bad that my newbie status scares you, I suppose we will not climb together anytime soon.

Post by **Crankmas** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 3:39 pm

Be engaged, move to keep the rope running properly and of course steps backward or forward give or take tension when a belay device is "kinda sticky", movement sideways can help a climber with clips etc.. side note, back in the dark ages my first climbing partner would use our goldline rope and lift protection out of cracks if you didn't sling them well enough-butthole.

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 4:04 pm

thanks for getting my pig ass back rhunt... what did we climb, was it 39 or 40 wekeends outside last year, plus 3 weeks of vacation?... I'd say that is logging alot of real rock climbing...

lol...injuries do seem to come in droves sometimes....not always at the fault of anyone...

Post by **rhunt** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:06 pm

acacongua wrote:rhunt, Saying that I've seen many injuries does not mean that I was part of that climbing team. It's too bad that my newbie status scares you, I suppose we will not climb together anytime soon.

yeah probably not but maybe I'll consider allowing you to climb near me maybe a year from now...

Newbie

Post by **rhino** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:11 pm

Things I like to do when I am belaying

1. Find a comfy spot - close to the wall, away from the wall.. who cares! Just find a soft spot to sit or lay down.

2. Stay somewhat focused - rock breaks, you don't want any falling and hitting you.

3. Talk to your climber - When John is really giving 100% and needs some encouragement, I like to say things like " I probably wouldn't go for it" or "That looks really hard"

4. Make sure you have food close at hand - Sometimes you get hungry while on belay

And one tip from Johnny, take lots of pictures when you are using an ATC.
I have lots of cool pictures of me out west because Johnny was kind enough to take time away from belaying and snap a few shots.

Team Safety belaying 101

Post by **MiaRock** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:16 pm

you forgot one thing rhino, make sure to store your rope in battery acid, it makes it run nicer through the ATC...

Post by **acacongua** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 5:53 pm

rhunt wrote:
yeah probably not but maybe I'll consider allowing you to climb near me maybe a year from now...

Newbie

OH, I guess I need at least three years in just so I can be superior enough to climb with you. Three years and I can get snob climbing status?

Post by **captain static** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:01 pm

Practice makes perfect, but how much is anyone going to practice belaying a fall with a good rope and a live person. What is needed is a belay tower. This is what the military & the Mountaineers use in their courses. It is what was used at Voyageur Outward Bound School where I first learned to climb. I wonder why gyms don't use such a set up for their belay tests?

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 01, 2004 6:06 pm

um, even three years is newbie status...try again....