Armageddon

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Astroman
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:06 pm

Armageddon

Post by Astroman »

What's the deal with this beauty? And what about the short, splitter finger crack at Funk Rock? Any other "last great projects?"
strum
Posts: 296
Joined: Thu Mar 27, 2003 11:25 pm

Post by strum »

I watched someone clean aid it, it just takes really small stuff, the kind you shouldn't be too ass-on-fire about falling on
4679 posts sine my last visit... I've been skiing too much
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

It's very difficult as a free climb. Horatio was working it for awhile. Apparently he had to run it out about 20 feet on micros in one section.

The short little thing has caught some attention from a few for a bit but it's just...well......a short little finger crack that's really tough.

I've got a route at Fortress which I've toproped but haven't been able to lead clean yet. It's a powerful beauty for sure.

There's a shit load of stuff in the Southern Region and plenty more to be found in all of the other areas.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Steve
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Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:34 am

Post by Steve »

You still haven't gotten that line up at Fortress SCIN? You should get back on that thing and send it!
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Post by SCIN »

Nah man. I keep saying I'm gonna go get on it but you know how that goes.
It's on my list for this spring.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
Astroman
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:06 pm

Post by Astroman »

Hey Lurk,
Considered adding (or authorizing) a strategic bolt or two to Armegeddon for more reasonable free climbing possibilities? It's certainly not unheard of to add some fixed gear to an aid climb to make it "go." What do you think Ho?
JS
Horatio Felacio
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

it will go as is, and is quite "fun" already. i'd pull a bolt or fixed pin(s) if they were added. the only problem with the route is that it's wet a lot of times.

some other good trad routes to do free would be the thing with anchors between ACWLF and Skeletor, and a really steep aid route up at skybridge (refraction i think).
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
the lurkist
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Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

It'll go without bolts. Nested Lowe balls below the turn. Ho says he got a small cam. When it does go it will be one of the raddest trad lines in the country.
Another line that will go is Refraction at Sky Bridge (as Ho-mo mentioned). I've aided it. 30 degree overhanging tips crack. 13+ I'm sure. Someone has put anchors up there at the top. Actually it goes on above that climbing under this hanging flake that looks like the sword of damacles. Bronaugh and Ron Snyder did the oringinal FA on aid and climbed up there. Bronaugh esta loco...
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
Horatio Felacio
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Joined: Tue Sep 24, 2002 7:26 pm

Post by Horatio Felacio »

i don't think refraction has ever been dry. i was up there in late august i believe last year, and it was soaked. hadn't rained in a week or two. the good part is, the hard part stays dry and looks fairly easy when it becomes wet.
Yo HO!! Just got me a code red and some funyons big dawg!!! SHIT YEAH! - Ray, excited about his breakfast
the lurkist
Posts: 2240
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Post by the lurkist »

the upper hand crack 5.10 section is wet, but I think those jams could be done with it wet.
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
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