Things your Belayer said this weekend

Post by **Ernie** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 12:32 am

I talked to the guy who decked later that day at Military and he said that he was at the bolt and his belayer dished out the slack but he hadn't grabed it yet. Obviously he fell and hit pretty hard. He landed on his back and cracked his head. They went to the hospital where he got 5 staples in the back of his head and then came strait back to Military. He seemed to be in very good spirits. He didn't climb for the rest of the day but I did see him belaying someone on top rope. We talked for awhile about never dishing our or taking up slack if your not confident you can make it. this seems to be a common mistake, being so gungho to clip a bolt that you forget the consequences of blowing it.
The same thing happened on Friday at Military, a guy trying to clip #3 on sunshine or moonbeam and blew it. Apparently his belayer managed to catch him a foot off the ground. Decking seems to be an epedimic at Military. I wonder what it is about this place. There are easy climbs at Torrent too, but I rarely hear of folks decking there.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 1:44 am

My Belayer never shut up the whole weekend unless she was eating or sleeping.Yak Yak Yak Yak Yak yak yak. Just another reason not to take your daughter along climbing. AND STILL NO PINNAPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE!

Post by **Joe Finney** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 3:25 am

I got dropped from the belayer and it was 99% his fault and 1% my fault, by not watching him.

Post by **Alan Evil** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 4:16 am

young'n climber wrote:While in the crux of a project..."Can you lock off for a second? I have the grigri backwards"

Guilty.

Not with young'n but I've done that once.

I didn't ask myself if I was set right which I've always done before. Really really stupid.

Post by **Alan Evil** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 4:18 am

ynot wrote:My Belayer never shut up the whole weekend unless she was eating or sleeping.Yak Yak Yak Yak Yak yak yak. Just another reason not to take your daughter along climbing. AND STILL NO PINNAPLE UPSIDE DOWN CAKE!

Mmmmmmm, upside down cake.

You're all friendly business, ynot. And your daughter wasn't all that obnoxious Sunday.

Wasn't the snowfall bizarre and beautiful? What a neat day it was.

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 4:21 am

"Oh fuck"

That was uttered by me, the belayer, as my partner decked. Luckly we were at the gym and he bounced up like there was no problem, and there wasn't one. That was the last time I only doubled checked gear. At minimum three times from there on out.

M

Post by **DKing** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 4:22 am

rhino did he JB your ass off the route?????

Post by **RTimm** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:03 am

All of these people that keep saying stuff about gri gris being loaded wrong and belay devices screwed up should be blamed. do you not check your belayer before you venture up a rock? there should be no reason you should ever hear"hold on, my gri gri is loaded wrong".

Post by **young'n climber** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:09 am

Alan Evil wrote:
young'n climber wrote:While in the crux of a project..."Can you lock off for a second? I have the grigri backwards"
Guilty.

Not with young'n but I've done that once.

I didn't ask myself if I was set right which I've always done before. Really really stupid.

I have witnessed this display of human stupidy also. Awhile back in my local gym their was a summer camp going on and one of the young girls, maybe slightly under 80 lbs. wanted to belay the camp leader on a grigri. This girl was also very new to belaying therefore it was mainly the climbers fault for not checking her grigri. So the camp leader begins his climb, quickly sends and yells take; I am at the other end of the gym at this point. In one quick moment i hear a thump and look over to see the leader on the ground from about 42 feet up. Luckily he grabbed the belayers side of the rope which slowed his descent. He faced major rope burns to the bone on one hand and a back sprain. From that day on i've always tried to be extra cautious with a grigri.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 5:12 am

I think I have post this before, but it kinda fits in:

Last summer on my road trip, I climbed with a bunch of different people, just whomever I hooked up with. I tie a double bowline. I would tie in, and ask if my "8" looked right. About 80% said my 8 looked fine...

Moonbeam has a hard-for-the-grade third clip, with ground fall if you blow it, so it sees more then it's share of injuries.

Wes