Things your Belayer said this weekend

Post by **MiaRock** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:34 pm

Meadows wrote:This weekend, I heard "Oh my God!" from a belayer whose climber decked and whacked his head on a rock over at Military.

so what happened?

Post by **GWG** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:35 pm

Spuzo,

I can hear him saying every one of those lines. Always the character wherever he goes.

GWG

Post by **spuzo** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 7:38 pm

Ask him to sing you a WHAM song while wearing his jean jacket - it's a crowd pleaser for sure....

As for the Military incident...I was told the belayer made a serious mistake and the climber decked, I think from the third bolt up on something. Aaron and Matt have details - Meadows I don't know where you were standing when it happened. They said the guy decked - got up and walked out straight to the hospital...

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:08 pm

MiaRock wrote:
so what happened?

A guy was pulling slack for the third bolt on Stay Left. I guess his foot slipped and he went straight to the bottom. He was a big guy, his belayer was a smaller female using an ATC. He is okay, I heard that he got seven stitches.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 9:43 pm

sounds like there wasn't much the belayer could do about that.

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:06 pm

Depends on the "serious mistake part". If the belayer wasn't anchored then the accident could have been avoided by that. If there was too much slack out (was he clipping over his head/shoulder level) an anchored belayer might not matter as much.

Since I wasn't there I don't know. If someone does know please inform us so we may try to avoid such accidents in the future.

And, most importantly, glad to hear that he is ok.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:12 pm

man, anchored belays are pretty stupid to begin with.

blowing the 3rd clip on just about any route is gonna result in a ground fall. nothing the belayer can do except possibly run like hell and hope to take in enough slack.

Post by **MiaRock** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:17 pm

i have belayed plenty of whippers taken by those a lot heavier than me and have never been anchored.

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:17 pm

Touche! I totally forgot about the 3rd bolt rule around here. I need to remind my belayer about this.

M

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 10:19 pm

Ok Ok I see where this is going. I just don't like being threaded through a draw. Glad I'm so fat now that it won't happen to me.

M