Gear Placements

Post by **Snowpuppy** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 4:26 am

Hello everyone. I'm just starting out learning how to place passive pro. How long did it take for you to trust your weight to the placements you make.

Thanks.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 4:33 am

Back one up with a cam and then weight it ,you will learn to judge for yourself.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 4:45 am

I've never whipped on a nut, but after you place a few, you'll know. Back them up as ynot suggested, and have an experienced leader follow you so s/he can let you know if your placements are good.

Post by **strum** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 5:50 am

I find that a good way to learn your placements is to get on a toprope and mock aid the rute.

every time you place a piece clip an aider, or long sling into it and step in, bounc a little, see if (how) the piece moves (since you are on top rope, you can do this with reckless abandon)

have fun!!
your gettin into the real stuff now!! 8)

Post by **Snowpuppy** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 5:06 pm

Thanks. I'll say that it is quite a bit more challenging.

Post by **skeeterth0mps0n** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 5:50 pm

Always a good idea to start mocking trad climbs on top rope like strum wrote.

Also,...the more surface area that the nut has touching the rock the better. You might want to give it a strong tug downward to set it in place.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Mar 22, 2004 8:34 pm

go to bouldering areas like coffee shop or road cuts, and place the pro with your feet on the ground, you can learn the sizes of gear for reference as well as placement nuances, the ones that you pull on and fly out and hit your forehead are the poor placements, take some shorter slings so you can create some leverage