There Are No Hard Routes at the Red

Post by **captain static** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 7:44 pm

At least not in the eyes of this british climber's comments that I found on searching the net today:

"For the climber looking for hard F7s and F8s your ego will be massaged like never before. A slight hint of power is enough for all but the hardest routes. Combine that with some stamina and you will find yourself, pumped and staring at the anchors after an onsight that would never have been possible in Europe. As with all routes that require stamina, the area is prone to initial overgrading and then abrupt downgrading. If you onsight something that you think you ought not to have, check in the guide book and accept the current grade. If you are are looking for an easy tick and a great route for your climbing C.V., try Harvest at The Motherlode. Given 5.13a (F7c+) for the first ascent, the way it is done now is more likely to be easy 5.12d (7b+/7c)."

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 8:59 pm

If somebody could find a better way to climb Harvest so it's only 11c, I'll be impressed. One letter grade drop on one route doesn't mean squat. It's interesting how personal experience so strongly affects perceptions.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 11:22 pm

So w3hat the hell do Brits know?They lost the revolution,nearly lost in ww2 and no one can afford to live there.buncha sorry asses. Thier crags are all rotting chosspiles,so they cry sour grapes.

Post by **Legion** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 12:12 am

what a chuff. Who cares about his climbing CV anyway? I pitty the poor saps who had to eat their pizza on the same porch as this spraylord. and wow, downrating Harvest a whole letter grade. That is absolutely earthshattering. It's a good thing he said something. Hang on, I'm gonna run right over to the lode and do it because it's such an easy tick, then I'm gonna put it on my CV and spray to everyone that I am a 5.13 climber.

Post by **no grain** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 6:52 am

Flat out. What is a CV? I am struggling.

Post by **Legion** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 6:58 am

it's like a resume

Post by **no grain** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 7:00 am

I got that much, but what does it stand for? Thanks.

Post by **Brett** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 9:08 am

CV stands for Curriculum Vitae (latin)

Post by **SikMonkey** » Fri Nov 22, 2002 2:03 pm

No hard routes at the Red?!?!?!? Hell, that's great news!!!! Skeletor, here I come!

Mj

Post by JR » Fri Nov 22, 2002 5:00 pm

I found THIS searching the net today:
"For the climber looking for 12's and 13's, your ego will be massaged by Europe. Most routes contain a small boulder problem surrounded by fluffy 10a climbing guarding the chains. A perfect example of this is the supposed classic BritsRbitches, rated 12.d. It follows a bolted 10a finger crack, to a crux, and finishes on jugs. I onsighted BritsRbitches and it is definitely 12.c compared to my home crag."