Bolt/Anchor issues on Altered Scale & Trouble Clef

Post by **Don McGlone** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 2:26 pm

On Trouble Clef the rock seemed sound enough to me, although generally around here the tops of slabs can be a little soft. It would only take a couple of inches of chain or quicklinks to allow the biners to hang safely. I would/could have fixed it myself, but I had no links with me and I'm not sure when I may be going back there. The only thing that needs to be replaced in my opinion were the anchors on Altered Scale - the one with the crack. I didn't assess it that close, but maybe they could be repositioned and possibly even a third added. To me, the rock there seemed a bit softer than on Trouble Clef. As for the bolt below the bulge on Altered Scale, it was in a good position as far as clipping it goes. Maybe a link could be added to it, but would probably get taken by booty-snatchers. Thoughts?

Post by **Johnny** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 2:56 pm

Don, sounds like there are a lot of possibilities. I'll go up there with chain and a drill and extra anchors just in case.

As far as "chipping" rock... I can't see removing an offending sharp edge worse than drilling two more holes to move the anchors. We're not talking about the ethic of chipping holds to make a route possible, we're talking about removing an insignificant edge so one's rope and draws aren't damaged and rendered unsafe. If you have been on any new routes, you would realize that edges like these get broken off constantly when you try to use them as a foothold (or sometimes a handhold). It's only after there is a lot of traffic that the holds on such routes seem solid. The set of routes by Kampsight have a lot of iron oxide edges that have been broken off by climbers. It's the nature of sandstone and edge climbing.

Post by **Eagleman** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:07 pm

What needs to be done? Some one said chains, someone said new anchors...I'll be heading down to the red pretty soon for my spring break (10 days of climbing!) and I do already have bolts hangars and chains, so I'd be happy to replace/fix those anchors when im down there. Johnny, if you wanna do thatt then cool, if not just tell me and i'll take care of it. And yes rock does break, but we should avoid chipping the rock if it isnt necessary and if the anchors are in soft rock like ynot said then we should move the anchors to solid rock, not pound it till the biners hang nicely.

Post by **ynot** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:11 pm

The rock is so soft that biners have worn big spots under the bolts. That doesnt happen in good rock.

Post by **Eagleman** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:14 pm

I've only been on a few of those routes, theyre usually crowded, but ynot, do you know if there is more solid rock around the existing anchor, maybe move them up a bit?

Post by **Johnny** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:20 pm

The rock is soft everywhere on that buttress. But soft rock doesn't necessarily mean you can't put in good anchors. Perhaps it's just a matter of heavy use and some misuse. Maybe Fixe Ring anchors aren't best for that. I dunno.

Post by **Eagleman** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:25 pm

the should be replaced and use the 2 bolt anchor where one is above the other and they are connected with a chain...the one wes was talking about. That way you get the anchors in different bands in the rock. I have the bolts hangars and chains necessary for this.

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:28 pm

So, let me get this right...Eagleman, you are giving Johhny advice on bolting? That is kinda funny, since I think he has gear that is older then you...

Wes

Post by **Eagleman** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:33 pm

Ok, uh...im not giving him advice, im was suggesting that maybe the anchors that you were talking about might be more suitable to that rock. I wasnt telling him thats the only and best way to do it. It looks like, from reading this thread, that there are several different views on what should be done to fix the problem of unsafe anchors. I have offered to help fix them, but i was making a suggestion to see if that is the best thing to do. Since i have not been on the routes in question, i dont know what situation is. For me to do something about it, it would be nice to know what best solution. So no i was not giving him advice, if anything I was suggesting an idea and looking for feed back in way asking for advice.

And who cares if hes got gear thats older than me, what the fuck does that mean?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Mar 16, 2004 4:36 pm

actually your suggestion was a good one, Eagledude. Wes is just being a bitch.