Classic Routes of the Red River Gorge

[ray]

I ran a query on the online guidebook database to see what the best routes are using the new voting system. Thanks to everyone who takes the time to vote on the routes. It is really cool to see what people like.

Here is a list of all routes with a rating greater than 4 out of 5 stars:

|STARS| NAME OF ROUTE
| 4.09 | Bedtime for Bonzo
| 4.17 | Brontosaurus
| 4.17 | Cruising Lane
| 4.17 | Synchronicity
| 4.20 | Twinkie
| 4.22 | Opening Act
| 4.25 | Toxic Avenger
| 4.25 | Prime Directive
| 4.25 | Lollipop Kids
| 4.25 | The Shining
| 4.25 | Way Up Yonder
| 4.25 | Breakfast Burrito
| 4.29 | Doppler Effect
| 4.31 | Edge of Your Seat
| 4.33 | Vector Trouble
| 4.33 | Arachnid
| 4.33 | No Place Like Home
| 4.33 | Casual Viewing
| 4.33 | Seek the Truth
| 4.33 | Standing Ovation
| 4.38 | Ro Shampo
| 4.50 | Reliquary
| 4.50 | Tissue Tiger
| 4.50 | Nicorette
| 4.50 | B3
| 4.50 | Electric Cowboy
| 4.50 | Handjob
| 4.50 | Crack Attack
| 4.56 | Into the Purple Valley
| 4.60 | Where Lizards Dare
| 4.67 | The Gift
| 4.67 | Strick 9
| 4.71 | Central Scrutinizer
| 4.71 | Bare Metal Teen
| 4.75 | Stain
| 4.75 | Buff the Wood
| 4.80 | Skin Flute
| 4.83 | Party Time
| 4.83 | Stay the Hand
| 4.83 | Blister in the Sun
| 4.86 | The Return of Chris Snyder
| 4.89 | Rock Wars
| 4.92 | Autumn
| 4.93 | Roadside Attraction
| 5.00 | Jungle Beat
| 5.00 | Gung Ho
| 5.00 | Table of Colors
| 5.00 | Diamond in the Crack
| 5.00 | Caver's Route
| 5.00 | Dicey at Best
| 5.00 | The Quest
| 5.00 | Inhibitor
| 5.00 | Wild Gift
| 5.00 | Racer X
| 5.00 | Steelworker
| 5.00 | Windy Corner
| 5.00 | Convicted
| 5.00 | Blankety Blank
| 5.00 | Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus
| 5.00 | Shanghai
| 5.00 | Broken Chicken Wing
| 5.00 | Riptide Ride
| 5.00 | True Love

[heavyc]

I believe ratings like this would be very helpful in a written guidebook if someone ever decides to make an updated one. Thanks.

[Jonathan]

Who needs one, the online guidebook is a much better source for route info. Free, easy to update, and you can print out just the crag you need.

[bp_968]

Bedtime for bonzo was probably last because 100,000 people have voted on it, thus the law of averages will effect it. I'm sure most of the 5 star routes only have a couple of votes for them. Scin, Can you do a query for star rating and # of votes and post that?

Bp

[overhung]

Who needs one, the online guidebook is a much better source for route info. Free, easy to update, and you can print out just the crag you need.

Someone should mention this to the RRGCC. I think they're working on a new guidebook. Anyone know if this new guidebook will be electronic or paper?

[SCIN]

I've heard that the RRGCC is going to build an online guidebook as well when they do the hardcopy. So there will be two extensive online guides to the Red.

I will definitely maintain the one we have here though and continue to improve on it and keep it up to date. We have more and more people contributing to the guide with code, pictures, comments, route votes, etc. It has become a great community effort and information sharing tool for the routes and I think it will continue to be.

I just can't tell you how thankful I am to people that take the time to make comments on routes and vote on the routes. It really helps me to find good routes to climb and even climb ones I normally wouldn't because of a comment in the guide.

[bp_968]

So is the old rule of not posting "new" routes null and void now?
Ben

[andy_lemon]

I've heard that the RRGCC is going to build an online guidebook as well when they do the hardcopy. So there will be two extensive online guides to the Red.

From what I understand, the online guide the RRGCC puts out is just going to be for the Murray Property... maybe the whole southern region? Anyhow, I don't believe they are going to feature a tick list, allow comments, or have votes.

[andy_lemon]

So is the old rule of not posting "new" routes null and void now?
Ben

I think that was null and void a few years ago... Think about it though, most of the new development is not actually "in" the Red River Gorge so the NFS can't really do much about us posting it on the net. With the no bolting ban in the Red River Gorge area, how many routes do you actually think will get developed? What is the big deal anyway, someone puts up some sick hard trad climb then sprays at Miguel's about it, you might as well be listing it in a guidebook.

[captain static]

Excerpted from: http://www.southernregion.fs.fed.us/boone/rockclimb.htm

Rockclimbing Rules on the Daniel Boone National Forest

No climbing or rappelling from Tunnel Ridge Road within 300 feet of Nada Tunnel.
No climbing or rappelling from Sky Bridge, Gray’s Arch, or Chimney Top Rock overlook.
No new fixed anchor installation without prior approval of the Stanton Ranger District.
Limit climbing on Tower Rock or Eagles Peak to allow vegetation to recover.
Limit climbing from April 1 to Nov. 1: Haystack Rock, Courthouse Rock, and Hen’s Nest Rock to allow vegetation to recover.

I have an application in to the USFS for both trad and sport routes with no formal response. However, I have been told directly by District Ranger Joy Malone that it will be at least two years after the Forest Plan is approved before my application can be considered. Therefore, I believe there has no change to the USFS position on new routes.