Hands and down Jams

Post by **Legion** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:31 pm

Not clear what you mean Wes

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:34 pm

Look at your thumb. See the knuckle? I use that part of the thumb on really tight hands, since I can't get the "meat" part of my hand in the crack. It works pretty well.

Wes

Post by **Uncle Big Green** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:52 pm

I'd like to add this - generally, the thumbs up is the best as mentioned already. however, on really thin hands, I find that thumbs down is more secure bec. of the different torque you get on the jam. this especially helps when the crack is steep and you actually have to use a little burl. most people, including me, don't focus enough on their feet when crack (and all) climbing. kick that foot in there sideways and crank it, baby! sooner or later, the nerve endings deaden and/or you learn to do it right.

Post by **Legion** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 10:43 pm

that is really interesting Wes. I am still not sure if I can picture it. Maybe you will have to show me sometime. When I am in tight hands I tend to put my thumb straight up so I can make my hand skinnier and then push it forward to get a cam, but my knuckle doesn't touch at all.
Thin hands (#1s) are also one of my weakest sizes

Post by **kentuckysarah** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:04 pm

Nice, I got a lot of good advice from this. I'm still working on my jams

Post by **Larry Day** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:53 pm

A subtlety. There is a tendency when in desperate straits to tension the hand muscles too soon, particularly on thin parallel hands. Relax your hand and give it a little up and down rocking motion as you sink the jam. It is amazing how much more secure and less fatiguing the resulting jam can be.

Post by KD » Wed Mar 03, 2004 2:55 am

That thumb-knuckle thing hurts! If Wes is talking about what I think he is you put your thumb knuckle on one side of the crack and thumb pab on the other and squeeze and go fast to another spot. ouch!

Post by **Wes** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 4:36 am

I It is for when the crack is to big for thumb-finger stacks, but to small to get the fat part of your hand in. Pretty much, just slide your hand into the first knuckle, drop your thumb in on the other side of your hand, and squeeze the thumb knuckle against the side of the crack. It is almost like doing a thumb stack against your hand. For me, this size is around .75 camalot, #2 friend.

Wes

Post by **t bone** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:59 am

It depends on the climb. Use whatever works for you.

Post by **skychick** » Wed Mar 03, 2004 5:22 pm

This is what holds the jam in place, not pressing your fingers against the wall in the cupping motion you so often see people mimicking when they talk about crack climbing.

How do you do this, when the crack is a bit too big for hands & not quite big enough for fists? My trad-friends have much bigger hands & they seem to love #2 cam size cracks....I try to jam...but, end up using the friction of my finger tips for additional help (when the jam gets too loose). Whereas this can work on vertical stuff, it doesn't work well when I am trying to pull roofs (which usually leads me to some odd looking hand stacking, contorting & hucking).