Hands and down Jams

Post by **Crankmas** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 4:07 pm

Any preference for thumbs up or down jams on tips through hand sized cracks? Is there a situation that indicates one would be better other than feels right?

Post by **Wes** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 4:09 pm

Thumbs up is best when you can get it, as you can lock it off low. Thumbs down is good for reaching way up. In a corner, one hand thumbs up, one thumbs down, works well. That is for hands. Fingers, thumbs down is usually easier to lock.

Wes

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 4:47 pm

each crack is a little different bu the above post is right.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:01 pm

I'm a one hand up, one hand down kinda guy. I just can't seem to do both up, though I alternate which hand is up sometimes depending on how it feels.

Post by **Artsay** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:04 pm

I frequently climb with my leading hand thumbs down and shuffle my other hand, thumbs up, towards it. This technique works well for me with hand cracks that don't have too much diversity to them (i.e. Andromeda Strain, Brontosaurus...).

Post by **Legion** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:20 pm

thumbs up is the way to go on a plumb crack so you can cross through on every jam

for something that leans like Brontosaurus leading with your top hand thumb down is usually easier and a lot of the time you can still cross through

Post by **hamsco** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:21 pm

thumbs up, definitaly give you a longer reach up to your next hold.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:29 pm

I go both ways, depending on the situation. Seems like you just know what you should do when you are there.

I can't wait to get my hands dirty again... *wistful sigh*

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:37 pm

mmmmmm...i love crack.
maybe i can use some thumbs down finger locks to get back my cam on fingerlocking good this weekend at twall.

Post by **The Pirate** » Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:41 pm

aaron are you going to t-wall this weekend ? Who are you going with ?