Jacked up Bolts

Post by JR » Wed Nov 20, 2002 7:03 pm

What routes can you think of with fucked up bolt placements?

Ro Shampoo: A bolt one draw length from the anchors. Very pussy.

Kampsite aka Legbreaker: You get to a nice stance and then you do some silly slab move to hang the draw.

Too many puppies: The last bolt would be a 100 times easier to clip if it was on the other side the arete.

Post by **sparky** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:26 am

Jump for joy has a bolt that is way out in right field unless you ignore the jugs and follow up the little edges making it a hard 9

Post by **SCIN** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:29 am

Wild Gift-2nd clip
I have trouble finding the first bolt on Infectious too.
Unnamed route left of Skin Flute-Miss a clip and almost die.

Post by **t bone** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:35 am

i think it is the 6th bolt on bare metal teen. also bolt on thirsting skull in the middle of hard move. at least these are hard for me!

Post by **andy_lemon** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 8:41 am

"Paratrooper" at Dawson Bluffs has a zig zag all the way to the top.

"Tips and Toes" (5.12) at Dawson Bluffs, man this is a fine as finger crack that looks like something from out west. Some asshole came along and put in 2 sets of top rope anchors (why, no one knows) and 2 bolts (even harder for us to beleive).

"Procrastination" at Jackson Falls has too short of TR chains. It is rated a 5.7, that is if your over 6 foot tall and can reach the chains from the last hold.

"Cheerio Bowl" at Jackson Falls is a rope drag heaven. Alot of people skip the bolt up and right of the actual bowl.

I'm trying to think of some others...

I can think of one route where I (5'8") can stand on the ground and clip the first bolt. Kind of pointless.[/b]

Post by **Johnny** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:26 pm

Apparently you haven't been on Kampsight recently, JR.

Post by **Legion** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:40 pm

There are alot of crags across the country that could learn a thing or two about bolting from the RRG. There are some exceptions, of course, but most of the routes are quite well done.

Post by **bberlier** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 3:41 pm

SCIN, what about Skin Flute? Now that the clipping old broke off, That fifth clip can be bad.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 4:34 pm

1. Henry would be a trade route if not for the botched bolting.
2. Donita DeLores, need I say more.
3. Hanging the crux draw on Dave the Dude is the crux.
4. Martin Rides Again has a goofy clip.

Post by **ynot** » Thu Nov 21, 2002 11:30 pm

I have to agree with Legion. Some Of the anchor bolts at X rock,Colorado were just one manky looking thing that looked like something you hang a lamp from.