Harder Than Your Husband

Post by **One-Fall** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:02 am

This route looks so great. Anyone know much about it? Could someone who sucks at trad get up this thing? Any info would be appreciated.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:06 am

this is the hardest route in the planet! stay away at all costs!

seriously though, you need to be able to handjam and then do a one arm pullup off of the jam.

i liked the parts i could do (which included the traverse, karate chopping into the jam, trying to hang from one leg above me (which only briefly worked))
oh and i did a backflip into the rope causing some minor swelling in the crotch area!
my buddy preplaced a bomber hex in the crack before i started so i didn't have to fuck with gear placing during the transition. there are no feet on the last part of the traverse.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 2:43 am

did i meet you at roadside on sunday?

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 4:08 am

I like the route. Someone who sucks at trad may have some problems due to the tight jam you have to pull off of. The gear is bomber though. Just be ready to fire a cam in the lip and go though or you'll pump out trying to place it. I didn't have to hang off of a leg. I just got a high foot in the dihedral and cranked up to a fingerlock.

Post by **Legion** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 5:04 am

Is there a way to clean it if you don't have someone behind you that can follow it?

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 2:20 pm

i believe there are anchors for terry's new route that you sould rap off of.

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 2:23 pm

You build an anchor. Lower off. Untie. Tie in on the other end of the rope. Top rope and clean as you go. Clean the anchor. Walk left to the anchors of Stay the Hand. If you need further instructions from this point, Roadside is a popular crag.

Post by **Legion** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 2:42 pm

Thanks Thrax, I guess my question really should have been if there is a suitable place up on that ledge to build a TR anchor but from your post it sounds like there is.

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 7:03 pm

I get this route confused with Psycho Killer but if its the route near the boulder that is the start of Valor over... then there are new Fixe rings up above Stay the Hand top out. They were placed as belay anchors for Holly go Gayblade.

Post by **One-Fall** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 11:54 pm

aaron,

Yep, it was me on Sunday.

SCIN et al..... Thanks for the beta. The route looks like a ton of fun, yet I have never seen anyone on it. Hope to give it a try soon. Guess I need more traddy friends.