Unrepeated trad

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 5:43 pm

In another forum captain static mentioned an unrepeated 5.11. Does anyone know which route that may be? Why is it unrepeated? Is it a published route? Should it be repeated? Also, are there other unrepeated published routes?

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:12 pm

I am

no one has any info.

Post by **Wes** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:14 pm

You expected an answer in just under and hour and a half? Maybe give it a couple days.

Wes

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:15 pm

Time is running out for me.

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:20 pm

The route is The Return of Batman. It's up at Indian Staircase.
My friend and I tried it. It's about five feet of heinous offwidth/flared slot. It's harder than the grade. We broke off the only hold we could find while attempting it so it's even harder now I'm sure.

There aren't any unrepeated routes I know of........well there is one I named Resurrection Crack that hasn't seen a repeat but as soon as the "land owner" gives me the "OK" then I'll turn Horatio loose on it to give it a repeat. I gave it 5.12b and it's a short, overhanging fingercrack. Pretty powerful and bouldery.

There are definitely some rarely repeated routes though (5.12 and above): You can search the online guide for directions:

Country Lovin' 5.12b
Welcome to Ol' Kentuck 5.13a
Hidden Dragon 5.12c
Mr. Get it on Jones 5.12d
Drug Pusher 5.12a
Days of Rage 5.12d?(I've only toproped it. Hasn't been lead yet.)
Not Ice 5.12a
Vascular Massacre 5.12a (? I wasn't sure what to rate it) Short and powerful

Post by **Thrax** » Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:33 pm

Thanks for the response. When I heard captain static mention an uprepeated 5.11, I was curious why it had not seen a repeat. I seem to recall someone spraying about top roping a new trad route at Torrent.

Post by **Spragwa** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 12:48 am

Yeah, I think Terry put up a new route up at Torrent that's supposed to be an 11. It's kind of cool to stand underneath and look up at it. You get something akin to vertigo!

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:22 am

i think it is called dark city, 11d mixed or so.

Post by **captain static** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 2:57 am

Small correction, it is called Here Comes Batman. A pic of it is posted in the album http://www.redriverclimbing.com/album_p ... pic_id=474

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Thu Feb 19, 2004 1:53 pm

terry route's called dark city, i think