Private Duty Nurses at The Dome

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 4:37 pm

Anyone done it? Sounds cool.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 5:22 pm

It looked cool.I did After the Fact next to it anda few other routes there.I thought they all were alot harder than rated.Nickle Night would be a 9 anywhere else.After the fact felt like a 6.I went up there to do Eye of the Storm but passed it twice.It must be above a bunch of green boulders.andmaybe its really a 10. Oh yea,Blue Bellied Lizard is neat as hell,just really hard to get to.

Post by **Steve** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 8:35 pm

If I'm remembering the rumors correctly there has been an infamous rap off of PDN. Ask Johnny, he might remember.

Post by **Johnny** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 8:39 pm

Yeah, that's the one. If you see my water bottle with a sling around it, put it in a museum.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 10:22 pm

Holy crap Batman! I heard that story,but did not know it was you John.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Nov 18, 2002 10:55 pm

You rapped off your water bottle?? LOL, Can I hear this story?

Post by **Johnny** » Tue Nov 19, 2002 3:18 pm

Just young and dumb. I didn't have any big gear left when I got to the hard part and needed to bail. I happened to have a Nalgene water bottle with me with a sling taped around it. I lobbed the water bottle in a big crevice or behind some boulders (can't remember which), threaded the rope through the sling (don't want to lose a biner!) and rapped. It worked.
To keep this in perspective, you should know that by that time in my climbing career I had already rapped off of carabiners stuffed in cracks, knots of slings jammed in cracks, horns, boulders, twiggy trees, logs, tiny wires, chockstones, gear slings, 8-rings in cracks, and anything that was already "fixed".
I guess it's those kind of things that make me not worry too much about loose bolts, worn anchors, frayed slings, etc.

Post by **deleted username** » Tue Nov 19, 2002 3:55 pm

Private Duty Nurses is one of those guidebook routes that needs the size of the tree revisited. When hackworth wrote in his guide that it had a small tree, that was 20 years ago... it's now quite large... similarly, Carnivorous has a fairly substantial tree behind it.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Nov 19, 2002 4:44 pm

Ahh JB those are things that only a future guidebook author like yourself should be worrying about.

Post by JR » Tue Nov 19, 2002 7:04 pm

I cann't believe you guys climbed those routes. jeez, you guys love your Red River Trad. I didn't see anything when I was up there.....But there was that big ass boulder.hhmmm. Has anybody ever climbed the boulder right behind Diana-Mo-Hum?