What is the best boulder problem in the red?

[Wicked Tribe]

If you do any of these problems let me know what you think of them. As far as I know I am the only one that's ever been on them.

You may want two pads and/or a spotter for all of these except Dogfighter. It has its own natural crash pad and is low to the ground anyway.

PM me if you would like more info or just be adventurous and see what you find. There is plenty of potential out there for new problems. Especially harder problems cuz I've never been more than a V3-ish climber.

[lordjim_2001]

Will let you know what I see when I get back. I'm headed out the door now.

[lordjim_2001]

Back even faster. Dreams is beautiful. I want it bad. I also want a spotter when I do it and a helmet if I go back when there is some serious ice fall. Never thought I'd have to worry about ice fall at a "sport crag"

And check your PM's Wicked Tribe.

[hoss]

I've been up to Pistol Ridge and looked at Dreams but never had my pad with me. What area is When Doves Cry in?

[ray]

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... php?id=176

[Guest]

HA! I'm not the only one who thinks The Stairs are worthy.

I am dying to try When Doves Cry. I'm working on gaining some weight so I won't get too bruised when I fall repeatedly.

[Wes]

Sandy, don't worry you can't fall very far on WDC. Once you into the upside down part, you can just do an armstand and slide down. But, if you get past the crux, to where the floor drops down, then you could take a bad fall without some good spotters.

The topout is the crux of dreams, if you go stright up. You can cheat right, but that is missing the point. You want a couple pads and a good spotter or two for sure. I have flight tested the topout many times, and it is a clean fall, with the right pads and spotters.

Wes

[Guest]

I have a spotter in mind. Um, Wes...

[Wicked Tribe]

I took the fall from the lip of Dreams once. I missed two pads, a bunch of wadded up coats and my "spotter." Landed on my butt on a rock. Even if you cheat right at the top you've climbed the physical crux of the problem. The straight on top out is just a matter of body position and being willing to commit to slopers.

Just in case you want to know (if not, too bad!), the FA of Dreams was on a January day, the temp never got over 27F that day and it started to snow while I sat under the rockhouse resting before my final attempt. I went to put my boots on after sending it and they were frozen. I love that problem.

[Wes]

I made it to the top a bunch and still fell, I thought the direct topout was the crux for sure. Other then that, hitting the big jug just before the lip took a couple tries.
I agree it is one of the best problems I have done anywhere.

Sandy, no problem, just let me know when you want to go there. The Magnium and I will be ready.

Wes