Can you squish a rope and make it useless?

Post by **dhoyne** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 6:43 pm

The $25,000 question is: do you unquestioningly trust it to hold you in a lead fall?

If not, make a pretty rug out of it. If the flat spots are near an end, you can always cut it up and use it as a top-rope-only rope or use it as an anchor extension rope.

Post by KD » Fri Jan 30, 2004 6:52 pm

the belay loop thing makes sense, I always clip direclty into the tie-in and not the loop so that's probably a factor. Unfortunately most of the rope is flattened pretty well. It's kinda like a favorite car, I had lots of good climd-miles on it and hate to get rid of it, of course I hate to fall on it too.

Post by **GWG** » Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:29 pm

KD,

Man, another holiday due to the weather! Twice in one week no less

No wonder you have time to think about trivial stuff like climbing rope safety. Who cares what the rope looks like, climb up and then climb back down. Twice the climbing on the same number of routes.

Rock on, climb on, but don't think about falling!

GWG

Post by KD » Fri Jan 30, 2004 8:57 pm

GWC everyday is a holiday in my job, especially in june, july, august. You lead on it and I'll clean the gear out, then we can rap on your rope; it's never been out of the bag.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 2:49 am

Artsay wrote:A good FYI for using a GriGri is that it was designed to be used with a biner in the belay loop, not attached to a biner that is through the bottom and top loops of your harness (where you tie the rope). When it's used correctly, the rope runs through the device smoothly and the pinch isn't as severe on the rope. When used incorrectly, there is a constant tourch on the rope from the GriGri being shifted 45 degrees.

Artsay, I put my GriGri through the same loops I use to tie in with my rope-- I didn't know this was a bad thing. I do it because this way I can hold the end of the rope going to the climber in my left hand and the brake end in my right and and it's not all twisted in my hands. Does it really make that much of a difference? If it does, I'll have to change my ways.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 12:57 pm

I do the same thing Yas. It stabilizes the Gri so it's not flopping all over the place.

Mj

Post by **MiaRock** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 7:14 pm

just attach the biner to your belay loop and the waist belt loop, this give you a backup and when there is tension on the system it cause only one point of pressure on the biner. that keeps the grigi up and i don't think it effects it's performance.

Post by **Crankmas** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 10:13 pm

uh, what

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Feb 02, 2004 10:24 pm

actually someone showed me the 'trick' Mia mentioned and I've been using it ever since. Basically, as she said, instead of hooking your belay biner through just your belay loop, hook it through the belay loop AND the waist band of your harness. This keeps your biner oriented nicely and there is still only one point of pressure on the biner, as opposed to the potential for cross loading when you use your tie in points.

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Feb 03, 2004 12:13 am

Cool, I'll try that next time. Thanks Mia (and Sandy)!