maizy mae 5.13a

Post by **ynot** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:10 pm

All classics. guess that is what helps make them classic.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:16 pm

yeah i just don't like pumps. thanks for the low crux ideas. hippocrite shouldda been done last august, my foot slipped towards the top and then i got sidelined with other projects. oh and what do you suggest for the anaerobic endurance phase of the 10 wk workout? actually i've gotten better about resting before the pump the sets in which is helping, maybe i just need to work more on pump management.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:21 pm

the resting before the pump helped on all 3 of my 12's. couldn't have done them without realizing to shake out more often. made an incredible difference on stay the hand.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:21 pm

Well, work on pump management, but work too on developing the capilarity density in your forearms. That's where the A-E training comes in. Try doing a lot of easier routes or moderately intense boulder problems with minimal rest. You want to get that good deep power pump setting in and then just keep on climbing. The treadwall is good for that too. You climb on hard holds until you get a pump, then you move off and climb the jugs while shaking out. Then you move back to the smaller holds, and so on.

Mj

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:23 pm

All three of your 12's? You only have 1 listed in your spray list.

Mj

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 8:23 pm

thanks will give it a try when i come to that point in the training.

Post by **allah** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:43 pm

yo, if you wanna climb 5.13, then dont think about climbing 5.13. Just get out side every weekend (like it seems you have a been) and have fun and push your self as hard as you can. dont think about the grades because if you do and you dont reach your goal by the time you want then you will be disapointed. another thing you need to do is make sure you are climbing is really motivated people who wanna climb well and push them selves as hard as possible.

Oh, and i wouldnt follow what it says in that book. all you need to do is climb out side on the weekend, train in the gym (boulder, hang board, campus, tread wall) once or twice a week. Powerendurance is key to climbing well out side.

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Mon Jan 26, 2004 10:44 pm

no worries, just a goal that may or may not happen. either way it's the journey not the destination, right???

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 1:22 pm

another thing you need to do is make sure you are climbing is really motivated people who wanna climb well and push them selves as hard as possible.

THAT is the biggest key. Also, climb with people who are WAY better than you. As for the book, he has some good training ideas that I think will definitely help you get stronger (especially if you are like me and like to train and hate the cold). Allah is right though, power endurance (Anaerobic endurance) is a BIG key in climbing well outside.

Mj

aaron · Post by **aaron** » Tue Jan 27, 2004 2:21 pm

maybe we should hook up when the temps are better, im the ropegun of my group.