So today I went to left flank to get in some climbing. As we were finishing up our second warm up on face up that crack a group of four other climbers arrived. The first climber, in their group, starts to lead Mr. Bungle. As my partner is cleaning the route I notice the guy is to the third bolt, and he hasn’t clipped in yet. He then climbs to the bolt that is about the same level as maypop’s anchors, clips in and climbs to the anchors on this single quickdraw. Then at the anchors he doesn’t use any quickdraws, but he instead ties one end of his rope to the anchors, and raps down.
At the time I thought the guy was a little crazy. One slip of the foot or a broken hold and he would have taken a serious ground fall. Granted, its easy 5.7/5.8 climbing but I would have been pissed if this tool fell and seriously hurt himself messing up a good day of climbing for me. I was wondering how often you other people do stuff like this.
60 foot sport climb with one quickdraw
60 foot sport climb with one quickdraw
Last edited by chriss on Fri Dec 31, 2004 12:07 am, edited 1 time in total.
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skeeterth0mps0n
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 3:09 am
I don't care who you are or what grade climbs you can do. Showing off like that can either get himself killed or maybe one of his friends. I say that because what if one of them or another inexperienced person thinks they can go out and do stupid shit like that. Someone will end up getting hurt or even worse. Really,....how hard is it to practice save and responsible climbing? Not that hard. I personally think that guy should be castrated. I don't want his stupidity to be reproduced.
What distant and different beings in the verious mansions of the universe are contemplating the same one at the same moment!"
Henry D. Thoreau (Walden)
Henry D. Thoreau (Walden)
perhaps he was teaching them what not to do when climbing. I have seen many tutors like this particularly at the gym when lots of girls are around. It very educational and entertaining to watch them deomnstrate how gravity works and why ropes and quickdraws were invented. It's real cool when they fall, espically it's from real high and they bounce and their students are screaming. It also gots the word out about climbing safely.
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longlegsrule
- Posts: 1799
- Joined: Sat Jan 25, 2003 7:21 pm
I think there is such a thing as soloing climbs correct...when are you going to start telling these people they're stupid. Just cause you're afraid you're going to shit in your pants if you attempt this kinda thing doesn't mean everyone's afraid of it.
And for your information that was Steve climbing that route and I was the one giving him a catch. I never thought for once there was a problem...most of the time he puts up those ropes in his tennis shoes...at least he put on climbing shoes today. By the way he also hopped on and cleanly climbed that 12 around the corner a couple of times. He's been climbing for longer than most people on this board.
If you would like to know what he looks like there are plenty of pictures of him and taken by him in John Bronaugh's Red River Gorge Climbs (2nd Ed).
Oh and by the way...if you would like some climbing instruction Steve is a sweetheart and would be glad to help you...I'll pass along your # if you'd like.
And for your information that was Steve climbing that route and I was the one giving him a catch. I never thought for once there was a problem...most of the time he puts up those ropes in his tennis shoes...at least he put on climbing shoes today. By the way he also hopped on and cleanly climbed that 12 around the corner a couple of times. He's been climbing for longer than most people on this board.
If you would like to know what he looks like there are plenty of pictures of him and taken by him in John Bronaugh's Red River Gorge Climbs (2nd Ed).
Oh and by the way...if you would like some climbing instruction Steve is a sweetheart and would be glad to help you...I'll pass along your # if you'd like.
Last edited by longlegsrule on Sun Jan 25, 2004 6:02 am, edited 2 times in total.
From Kentucky ;o)
What I don't understand is why he bothered to clip one bolt at all?
No offense, LLR, but you're talking about the guy like he's a rock star or something. 5.12 is pretty average. To me, free soloing Mr. Bungle sounds pretty stupid. I mean, what's the point?
No offense, LLR, but you're talking about the guy like he's a rock star or something. 5.12 is pretty average. To me, free soloing Mr. Bungle sounds pretty stupid. I mean, what's the point?
Does he have a strange bear claw like appendage protruding from his neck? He kep petting it.
This is the tool that was climbing Mr. Bungle with my friends. If I fall to the ground, that's my own damn fault and it shouldn't ruin anyone's day. Like KD said, either way it sounds cool. I wouldn't normally skip bolts for fun at a popular area like Left Flank, but if you didn't notice, it's freakin' cold so there aren't newbees at the wall. If you have a problem with someone's style, speak up, but there's no reason I can't enjoy climbing the way I want too. I get away from gyms and cities so I don't have to deal with the burden of other people's rules. Whoever was on Maypop obviously hasn't been to North Carolina where there are 5.10s just for free soloing. That's what I enjoy, it's exciting and memorable. If you have a problem with that, sounds like someone's just jealous they have to clip all the bolts. I've been out of climbing for two years, so I clipped one bolt because I didn't feel comfortable without it. I'm just climbing that way to get my confidence back.
damn skippy.
the only people who should care about how you climb are your belayer and anybody who came to the crag with you that day since they are the ones that have to drag your carcass out if you crater.
For any bystanders participation in the exac is optional. (but sometimes the coroner has candy) but feel free to hurl insults at anyone at the crag who offends you with their climbing style.
LLR sounds pretty confident in your abilities, and obvioisly you wouldn't have done it if you had any doubt.
So what's the problem again?
lets get the fluff out of this sport while we still can
the only people who should care about how you climb are your belayer and anybody who came to the crag with you that day since they are the ones that have to drag your carcass out if you crater.
For any bystanders participation in the exac is optional. (but sometimes the coroner has candy) but feel free to hurl insults at anyone at the crag who offends you with their climbing style.
LLR sounds pretty confident in your abilities, and obvioisly you wouldn't have done it if you had any doubt.
So what's the problem again?
lets get the fluff out of this sport while we still can