On Site?

Post by **kato** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 2:46 pm

I watched some euro do the route to the left of sex farm. He climbed to the first bolt, clipped in, downclimbed. Then he climbed to the second bolt, clipped in, downclimbed. Then the third, etc. He did that all the way up the route, resting on the ground between bolts. He never fell, he never got beta from anyone. Technically, it seems like an onsight to me. Although, his belayer deserves the credit for all her patience.

I would say, if you friend did not fall, and does not get any beta or watch anyone climb the route, the onsight is preserved. The time in between is irrelevant.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 2:57 pm

Your friend just downclimbed to a better rest (the ground, a ledge...what's the difference?). Once he is well rested and starts up again he will be resuming his onsight.

Post by **Wes** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:05 pm

This thread should be voted must likely to be on rockclimbing.com. Ghey.

Wes

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:07 pm

dhoyne wrote:If it really makes you feel special and happy to achieve a label for your climbing ability, then yes.

I personally couldn't care if I hang or see someone else climb it or even (**GASP**) get beta on where to place gear... I just climb for the fun of it. That's my personal opinion anyway. 8)

You may be in for fun, but some are in for some competitive reasons(either amateur, pro, with self, friends, whatever). It's important to know the rules in this case. Also, it tells people you've never climbed with your ability. I could say that I get on 11s and that may tell my belayer to prepare for a lot of hanging. 8)

Post by **Meadows** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:08 pm

Wes wrote:This thread should be voted must likely to be on rockclimbing.com. Ghey.

Wes

Because it's actually about climbing for a change? Just kidding!

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 5:10 pm

I vote no onsight. He now has beta he previously didn't AND he has a giant rest that's not on the route (I am assuming there aren't any no-hands rests he can camp out on for a week). Having the beta in your head makes up for a LOT. The muscle memory you attain can make up for a serious lack of endurance.

Mj

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 5:14 pm

no. not on this route....it just seems a shame to blow your onsight because you had the bad luck of getting on the route when crucial hilds were soaked... There was no muscle memory attained. Its all pretty straight up.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 5:29 pm

SikMonkey,
So are you saying that Yuji's world famous onsight of Sphinx Crack was not really an onsight?

Post by **allah** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 6:24 pm

I will say that Yuji didnt on-sight it, to me he has half the route in his head even though he didnt fall or hang. he knew what to expect when and where on the route, to save energy for the upper section of the route. in my opinion he did this route second try. to me this is a way to cheat the system and say he on-sighted it for all his sponsors and bragging rights, which i know is on his mind. But hey what do I know.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Jan 19, 2004 6:37 pm

Funny dude, that is like one of the most famous onsights in history. I'd say that set the standards. So either Dirt's friend can listen to what history has proven or what some local craggers think. But regardless, it only matters what is okay in his own mind.