Do you swing both ways?
I'm a sporty and proud. I can think of two ocassions when I used a hand jam and it was on a sport route to rest both times. I must say I didn't like it one bit and quickly changed to just resting on the jugs. I've lead one trad route. Oh course it's Roadside Attraction. I layed the whole thing back and placed about six peices on the entire route (boy was that a pain). I also get into bouldering for the winter, however I always feel like I suck and transitioning is no fun. Last weekend at rocktown I heard myself say "If this was a route I would have already done it! I think my harness has magical powers, maybe I'll wear it bouldering!"
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jabbathehut
- Posts: 161
- Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 7:17 pm
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since the Red isn't exactly a bouldering destination, I didn't include that in the poll. I really like bouldering, too, but haven't done nearly enough. I can't wait to get to Hueco at the end of this month!
Each style of climbing is good in its own way for me. I used to hate sport climbing until I picked up some skills (not much, just some). I enjoy it now because it's more physical and takes more finesse than jamming cracks. I still enjoy cracks most of all, though. There is nothing more satisfying to me than sinking bomber jams and having the security of placing my own pro. At any rate, it's all good!
Each style of climbing is good in its own way for me. I used to hate sport climbing until I picked up some skills (not much, just some). I enjoy it now because it's more physical and takes more finesse than jamming cracks. I still enjoy cracks most of all, though. There is nothing more satisfying to me than sinking bomber jams and having the security of placing my own pro. At any rate, it's all good!
Ernie, Dont lie to everyone, you know you have lead a shit load of trad. I cant believe you are being so modest. You have on-sighted most of the classic 5.11 trad routes in the read, including the inhibitor (which i do remember you grunting on a little). I know you have done a few proud sport routes too, but you know your heart is into slotting your nuts in tight places, or should i say your hardware. 
When I started climbing it was completely sport at the Red and it was great. Just a rope, draws, food and water and you are set for the day. In sport you are focused on the climbing at hand and can push your limits without gear worries. Sport is, simply, beautiful movement over stone. But then I started seeing these really cool trad routes all over the place. So, I worked a second job until I had enough money to purchase a rack and the guy I bought the gear from showed me how to set up a three-point belay and the different nuances. I read up on how to place gear and did a few easy routes at Fortress. I then went back to the store to buy a few more pieces and the owner told me I had to go to Seneca and try Ecstasy. He seemed pretty knowledgeable. By then, I was climbing solidly on hard sport climbs so I though I would give it a go. My partner (college roomate) led the first pitch and then said nooo way he was leading any more of the route. So, I take of on pitch two. I ended up learning my first lesson on getting off route. Silly me, I take off right directly from the first belay. This was in the early 90s and the route was not obvious, no chalk anywhere. I found myself without gear options anywhere on hard terrain. I did manage to get a few micro nuts in but nothing trust worthy. After a long hour of worrying, moving, searching for gear, fighting off the pump, adrenalin buzzing, moving, pausing and absolutely shitting my pants I made it to the second belay point. By this point, my nerves were shot. For those who have been there, you know how wildly exposed that hanging belay is. Then comes the crux of the route, shortly after the second belay you have to pull some slightly overhanging, wild maneuvers over right up and then back left over top of your belayer. The fact that I didn’t know exactly where I should go and everything seemed difficult didn’t help my cause at all. Things didn’t look good and we even contemplated a retreat. That didn’t look good either. By this point, the wall shoots back into this huge cave so just looking at our ropes dangling and blowing in the air below us made me all too aware what had to be done. I had to make it to the top and I did. I will never in my life forget that climb; I was completely gripped the entire time. To this day I still remember every move and hold. I was absolutely hooked on trad from that point on. My brother and I went back and did it last year and it was a walk in the park but still a lot of fun.
Last edited by TradMike on Wed Dec 10, 2003 8:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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canadaclimbergirl
- Posts: 742
- Joined: Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:15 pm
mmmm...I climb trad and sport, and I boulder.
My home crag is 98% trad, so that is my calling at home. Roadtrips often involve sport crags, with some bouldering too. My only trad trip was to the Gunks..and we ended up in Rumney on the way home!
I've lead harder sport, but enjoy the trad more I think. Something about being 4 pitches up looking at the world with a birds eye view!
My home crag is 98% trad, so that is my calling at home. Roadtrips often involve sport crags, with some bouldering too. My only trad trip was to the Gunks..and we ended up in Rumney on the way home!
I've lead harder sport, but enjoy the trad more I think. Something about being 4 pitches up looking at the world with a birds eye view!
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman