usable range?

Post by **Wes** » Sun Feb 09, 2003 6:04 pm

There are big gaps in the camalots, esp. .75-1, and 1-2. A couple of friends is nice to have, like the 2 and 2.5 to cover those gaps.

Friends rule for anything bigger then a #4 camalot.

Wes

Post by **sparky** » Mon Feb 10, 2003 4:44 am

i've used a combination of aliens, camalots, and friends for years and this has been pretty solid for me. granted there have been times that my gear has been less than perfect for the placement, but i realized that i would go broke pretty quick if i tried to have a piece for every possible placement that i could potentially encounter. I think it is far more valuable to know how to work your gear than it is to have the perfect piece for each possible placement. I have to agree with johnny on the whole over camming theory though harder rock can be different if the fall generates enough force and the lobs are softer. I don't know how others feel about this but when i have a cam that is almost at the end of it's range and just about tipped out i tend to view it like a passive piece (in harder rock)

Post by JR » Tue Feb 11, 2003 5:09 pm

John e you should seek medical attention for your "hole" problem.

How have you climbed thousands of routes and still not know about cam ranges?

My bet is that you are a very average climber. Just ask questions you can handle.

You are posting in a trad forum, you should rethink your "climbers don't know cams" B.S.

Post by **CPower** » Fri Feb 14, 2003 5:37 am

I carry bongs and a hammer to fill the dreaded camalot holes.

Post by **overhung** » Fri Feb 14, 2003 10:50 pm

I stole these links from another site, but they're just too good to pass up... dammit:

http://home.datacomm.ch/leonhard.pang/c ... d_req.html

http://clydesoles.com/ClydeSoles/Front% ... 0size.html

http://home.attbi.com/~cspieker/misc/sizerang.htm

Post by **CPower** » Sat Feb 15, 2003 3:00 am

Very cool. definitely.

Post by **ynot** » Sat Feb 15, 2003 8:33 pm

Here is the chart at TradGirl.com .There is alot of good reading there.
http://www.tradgirl.com/climbing_faq/pro_sizechart.htm

Post by **john e aragon** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 2:44 am

i had to bring back this thread after metolius introduced thier new range finder system. eat crow lame wades.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 4:34 am

bait, hook, and (snatch!!!) ahhhhhhh.

"Now that's a nice one," he said with a smirk on his face. Just another day fishing in the old pond . He thought to himself..........

Post by **deal with it** » Mon Dec 08, 2003 3:12 pm

sparky wrote:i've used a combination of aliens, camalots, and friends for years and this has been pretty solid for me. (in harder rock)

right on aliens are low profile and light. They seem to fill in that .75-1 and 1-2 gap nicely, I also think the red alien is much nicer than the .5 camalot. who ever said freinds are better over the #4 size hit the nail on the head as well. wider nature of the freinds are sweet action