on-line guide - trad route gear beta?

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Dec 04, 2003 2:03 pm

Hey Ray,

This might be a pain in the ass, but I was thinking how cool it would be if we could add gear beta to the trad routes. Not placements, just info about what to carry up - min/max sizes and perhaps quantity. Maybe in a 'hidden' window that you have to click to see so that people who want to go for the onsite don't have to look at it if they don't want to.

My biggest challenge on trad routes is (still) looking at a crack and judging what to take up with me. I know that will change with experience, but I'm probably not the only person who would find this info useful. I've got some printed guides that base gear beta on an area standard rack and call out if you need extra of certain sizes. I know some of our routes in the database have gear beta, but it's not consistent. What do you think? Would this be too much of a hassle?

Would anyone else find this useful?

Post by **GWG** » Thu Dec 04, 2003 3:00 pm

I am just beginning to learn to climb trad and think this would be very useful information.

Something that might streamline the process would be to have a definition of what a "standard" rack is made up of. In the gear beta section, if this pre-defined "standard" rack is sufficient, then just list Standard Rack. If additional pieces are necessary, list it as:

Standard Rack
3 - #3 Camolots

I certainly appreciate the insight on what sort of pro should be included in a beginners' trad rack.

GWG

Post by **Crankmas** » Thu Dec 04, 2003 3:12 pm

I wish they would pre-size toilet paper so it wasn't such a hit or miss thing when I go to wipe my ass.

Post by **Spray Lord** » Thu Dec 04, 2003 8:24 pm

Many guidebooks for climbing areas out west will give the size of the crack or the range of the gear along with route descriptions. On the other hand, almost all gorge routes are single pitch and you can usually see the size of the crack just by standing there and looking.

However, if you really want to post gear beta, can you not just post it in the "spray box"?

Crankmas, a little t-p beta. As long as you make the wads of paper bigger than your hand you should be all good to avoid getting shit smeared. Most people learn this trick as a kid, though I'm sure that if you miss it then, it could be a difficult skill to acquire as an adult. Good luck though!

Post by **andy_lemon** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 7:08 pm

Why don't we just take a tape measure and get exact measurements for everyone... 8)

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 7:17 pm

I try to put gear recommendations in the route description when the route takes something large at top or where it can't be seen from the ground. From my experience, you can just look at a red river route from the ground to know what it's gonna take.

Post by **andy_lemon** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 7:20 pm

SCIN wrote:you can just look at a red river route from the ground to know what it's gonna take.

Same goes for the women too!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 7:21 pm

YOU can, but I've been known to take off on short routes - fully visible from the ground - carrying only up to a #3 Camalot and needing both a #4 and a #5. Heh.

I know this will come with experience. I hope anyway. It's harder for women after being told that 4" is 8" all our lives...

I agree, there is no need to add this feature to the guide. Carry on!

Post by **andy_lemon** » Fri Dec 05, 2003 8:08 pm

Sandy wrote:It's harder for women after being told that 4" is 8" all our lives...

ha ha, burn.

Post by **tomdarch** » Wed Jun 26, 2024 11:26 am

Sandy wrote:It's harder for women after being told that 4" is 8" all our lives...

False advertising is one thing, but think about all the guys who have been told that to salve their egos! Poor guys.