High Exposure

Post by **merrick** » Sat Nov 09, 2002 6:02 am

I led High Exposure today at the gunks. The third pitch was the best pitch of 5.6 I have ever done and a super quality route for any grade. Coming around the lip of the roof is a crazy rush. I highly recommend this route.

Any one else done it????

Post by **Johnny** » Mon Nov 11, 2002 2:26 pm

Yeah, that's one of the few routes I've done there. I totally agree with you. It's probably the best 5.6 in the country. Fantastic gear placements down low and surreal exposure on the last pitch.

Post by **merrick** » Mon Nov 11, 2002 5:18 pm

Yea super classic. i am finding that the three star routes here really merit three stars. Still only one climb comes close to High Exposure, Madame G or Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst. It is also 5.6. You can do it in two pitches with a hanging belay in the middle. the top pictch is just incredible. slightly overhangning jugs with good gear that goes on and on. With every move the climb gets better and better. Not to be missed.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Nov 12, 2002 3:27 am

I think High E is one of the few 'classic' moderates I missed at the Gunks. Madame G is cool, but Shockley's Ceiling is way better. For some Near Traps fun try Gelsa and Disneyland.

Post by **Hefe** » Tue Nov 12, 2002 2:28 pm

How does THE DADDY rate in comparison to High Exposure. That was the most fun I had ever had on a climb....then again, I don't get out much beyond the Red.

Post by **Steve** » Tue Nov 12, 2002 10:57 pm

I'd say completely different. Having not climbed High E, I have climbed at the Gunks. There is a waaaay different feel to the approach at the Trapps compared to the approach to the Ampitheater.

Post by **merrick** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 1:16 am

So I followed your advice and got on Shockley's Ceiling today Steve. i led the last two pitches and that roof is great. I am surprised that it is only 5.6, cause pulling up over that thing felt hard and exposed. I think my entire body weight was hanging on a single handjam at one point.

I must say that it ranks right up there with Madame G and High Exposure. it is hard to say which I liked most since they were all soooooo good. i think i liked madame g best due to it's continuous nature. the gunks rock and I think today was the last day of the season. Today was relatively warm and sunny and tomorrow the winter storms are supposed to hit.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 4:26 am

I'm going to have to get to the Gunks sometime. That sounds so fun, Merrick. Is it true that Gunks ratings are stiffer than most, do you think? That's what I've always heard anyway.

Post by **merrick** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 4:31 am

yea, I think they are quite stiff. i think they are actually a pretty good breakdown of the various difficulties of different grades and I wouldn't mind if more areas were like the gunks, but they are stiff compared to most any other area I have been to. sort of an ego crusher if you care about numbers. on the other hand the climbing is so good who cares if it is 5.3 or 5.12

Post by **sparky** » Sat Nov 16, 2002 7:43 am

How does it compare to Seneca?