No More Blown Tips... How Stupid

Post by **Yasmeen** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 6:51 pm

Tommy Caldwell wore all kinds of sticky stuff on his legs when he redpointed his latest route. I wish I remembered the name... he won't give it a grade.

Post by **overhung** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 7:06 pm

Flex Luthor I think. Yep, he had sticky pads on his knees for knee-bars. Ethics is a muddy business. He wouldn't grade it, but folks are saying .15

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 8:01 pm

Also, Randy Leavitt wore palm coverings for his ascent of Dihedron in Joshua Tree and Book of Hate in Yosemite.

Post by **tomdarch** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 8:10 pm

SCIN wrote:Also, Randy Leavitt wore palm coverings for his ascent of Dihedron in Joshua Tree and Book of Hate in Yosemite.

I think I read somewhere that he resorted to the rubber palm pads on Book of Hate after wearing through the skin on his hands, so it sounds like he really tried to get the route without them first.

Personally, I think this is all a game. If it's fun for you to do some crazy kneebar route with rubber knee pads, then go for it! If it's more fun (aka less painful) to boulder with sticky rubber finger-thingies, then great! It seems like these things are only an issue when people compete against each other. I'm thinking of a slab route I was on in Yosemite with looooong runouts on glassy rock - it was put up before sticky rubber. I had a ton of fun doing it in modern shoes and that's great for me, but I can't compare myself to the (insane) oldschool hardmen who put it up pre-Stealth.

Post by **Christian** » Tue Nov 25, 2003 8:41 pm

When we went to HP40 my finger pads were raw by the third day... I would probably use the finger condoms(on my fingers) just to keep climbing.

Post by **merrick** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 12:53 pm

i am telling you, just use superglue. it works well. there is no need to be a chuffer.