weekend report
You guys missed out on a nice weekend in SoIll. The Holies were closed for hunting, but Jackson Falls was nice as always. Saturday, I warmed up by finally ticking a little 10b (Southern Inquisition) that I just hadn't put together during a bunch of half-hearted tries. I fell off of Classic Arette (the V3 variation to Fusion) a bunch of times and watched people work Body Karate (V7?). Then we headed to the Zig Zag area. We ended the day flailing on Never Had a Name (supposedly V2, but even the badasses were popping off) where one guy rolled down hill backwards beyond the pile of pads and concussed himself on a rock!
Sunday, we started on the Reefer Madness boulder. It's really grown back its moss in the last year, so a bunch of stuff had a nice extra slime factor. A bunch of us spent most of the time trying to get a V2/3 unnammed problem that ends with a good throw to a slopey lip, then a tough (for the grade) mantle. Later, we headed down and did Lovely Arette (11a) then TR'd Hidden Treasure (12a crimpfest). There were some increasing sprinkles and thunder in the distance. We started heading out and stopped to goof off on another problem. One of the people we were with wanted to do Skypilot - a V4 highball. As a sport route it would easily have 2 or 3 bolts on it and would be super popular and classic. It tops out around 25 ft. up with a 4 ft jutting prow which you need to get out on and mantle onto. Luckily it was wet, so we just hiked out. If this guy had given it a try he would have had to do the topout crux in a torrential downpour. It totally opened up just as we got to the cars!
Sunday, we started on the Reefer Madness boulder. It's really grown back its moss in the last year, so a bunch of stuff had a nice extra slime factor. A bunch of us spent most of the time trying to get a V2/3 unnammed problem that ends with a good throw to a slopey lip, then a tough (for the grade) mantle. Later, we headed down and did Lovely Arette (11a) then TR'd Hidden Treasure (12a crimpfest). There were some increasing sprinkles and thunder in the distance. We started heading out and stopped to goof off on another problem. One of the people we were with wanted to do Skypilot - a V4 highball. As a sport route it would easily have 2 or 3 bolts on it and would be super popular and classic. It tops out around 25 ft. up with a 4 ft jutting prow which you need to get out on and mantle onto. Luckily it was wet, so we just hiked out. If this guy had given it a try he would have had to do the topout crux in a torrential downpour. It totally opened up just as we got to the cars!
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andy_lemon
- Posts: 1566
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am
No, your thinking of Giant City.Yasmeen wrote:but is it Jackson Falls where it's toprope only?
I didn't realize that place had such cool bouldering. I hear the sport routes are pretty cool too. What are they like?
They are like a sloper fest... old sandstone rock equalls smooth holds. Some routes suck as "Group Therapy" resemble some of the Red but others such as "Fine Nine" are slopey as hell. The bouldering is pretty cool... finger pockets, slopers, and cool mantels. Some John Gill probs at Dixon Springs... Multi-pitch at Draper's. Beer and college co-eds located in Carbondale, a mere 30 minutes from Holy Boulders.
The best current guidebook available to J-falls:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... AreaID=410
A complete online guide to Draper's:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/list ... AreaID=407
Tom, Never Had a Name is pretty cool. I've done the moves and made it to the half moon dish but never mantled the problem. The holds were probably wet or something... Did you do Ghetto Life? It is pretty cool. There is some more bouldering back by the railroad track area that Dr. PooPoo never got around to listing.
Not a bitch.