Bouldering Shoes-Your Opinion?
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Bouldering Shoes-Your Opinion?
I have used Anasazi Velcro's as a bouldering shoe for years but my current pair is shot. Most of the bouldering I do is on plastic but I do occasionally get outdoors for bouldering. I am thinking about switching to another shoe and am considering the Katana, the Cobra, and the V-10. With the amount of indoor bouldering I do, durability is also an issue. Your vote and any input is appreciated.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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lordjim_2001
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- Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm
I would buy the least expensive shoe that fits your foot perfectly. Personally I'm going for the Mad Rock Flash. Why would you buy those lordjim you ask? B/c I have the Phoenix now and they fit wonderfully and I want velcro b/c of easy in/out/in/out and they are pretty darn inexpensive.
If the Anasazi's fit your foot perfectly stay with them. If not put your foot in a lot of others and find one that fit perfectly on YOUR foot.
If the Anasazi's fit your foot perfectly stay with them. If not put your foot in a lot of others and find one that fit perfectly on YOUR foot.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
I agree with lordjim. What fits well on my foot may be the worst shoe for you. I have used the Mistrals for several years and since they don't make them any longer, I had to find a new shoe. I've settled on the Anasazi velcro however it still doesn't fit my foot as well as my Mistrals but better than all the others I tried. Hopefully, with time, they will!
I have the V10's and love 'em. The only problem is that the Stealth HF rubber they have on them wears out pretty quick. Once it does though, just have it resoled with C4 unless you really fall in love with the HF. Oh and 5.10 says to size them a half size UP from what you wear in the Anasazis.
The Cobra is a great shoe, but damn it stretches too much (and I don't particularly care for Sportiva rubber). I had to size mine down 3 full sizes from my street shoe and it still got sloppy after a while. I have a friend that swears by them though and is crushed that they are being discontinued.
If you want a pretty decent economical shoe, try the Mad Rock Shark or something from the Evolv line. I own the Shark and it's not bad. The Hooker sole and heel are definitely interesting and really can be used to your advantage. If you like your shoes pretty damn tight, size it a full size down from your street shoe, if you like it sorta tight, just go a half size down. The rubber is really super sticky, but they aren't as aggressive as I like my shoes. The Evolv Rage slipper is an ok shoe as well. The rubber is great, but they are a bit stiff out of the box and I am not real sure they break in that much. You can try them on at Miguel's and see what you think. They (as well as MR) have an aggressive model coming out towards the end of the year I am interested in.
I hope this helps.
Mj
The Cobra is a great shoe, but damn it stretches too much (and I don't particularly care for Sportiva rubber). I had to size mine down 3 full sizes from my street shoe and it still got sloppy after a while. I have a friend that swears by them though and is crushed that they are being discontinued.
If you want a pretty decent economical shoe, try the Mad Rock Shark or something from the Evolv line. I own the Shark and it's not bad. The Hooker sole and heel are definitely interesting and really can be used to your advantage. If you like your shoes pretty damn tight, size it a full size down from your street shoe, if you like it sorta tight, just go a half size down. The rubber is really super sticky, but they aren't as aggressive as I like my shoes. The Evolv Rage slipper is an ok shoe as well. The rubber is great, but they are a bit stiff out of the box and I am not real sure they break in that much. You can try them on at Miguel's and see what you think. They (as well as MR) have an aggressive model coming out towards the end of the year I am interested in.
I hope this helps.
Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
I already have a pair of Miura's (actually it's my third pair). I want a something that I can get on/off easily. I am aware of the sizing differences between Five Ten and Sportiva. I am suprised with the comment to size up if I move to the V-10's. I used to have a pair of Mirage's and they were a half-size down from my Miura's. I have heard the Mad Rocks wear out quickly? I'll definitely be trying some different shoes before I make a decision. I did check out the Evolve shoes at Roctoberfest but wasn't really impressed. Keep the comments coming.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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lordjim_2001
- Posts: 1764
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2003 5:07 pm
I've heard stories about the "duo-density" mad rocks "blowing out", the hard rim seperating from the soft center. Since I thought of that as a marketing gimic I look at their shoes without it. Everything about mine appears fine. They streatched a bit more than I anticipated, or my foot is smaller now that I'm cramming my foot into tiny shoes, but that isn't a big deal, they ain't sloppy fitting yet.
Screw you guys. I'm going bowling.
Yeah, the V10's and Dragons both are cut smaller than the Anasazis. I tried on an 8.5 in the Anasazis and ordered a 9 in the V10's. The rubber on the MRs does wear out a bit quicker than say C4, but it's not nearly as fast as HF.
Mj
Mj
...quitting drinking is kinda like washing your hands after you take a crap...why start now?