Beta request for Sex Farm and Wild Yet Tasty...

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 2:52 pm

First of all, do these climbs stay dry? They are steep, but do they seep? Also, what do you (anyone who has been on them) think of these routes? Are they graded about right (12 a/b)? Any hidden holds, trick beta etc? Any info would be appreciated as I am going to TRY to climb tomorrow, even if I have to get my canoe out to get to the crag. I was going to hit Torrent, but I don't think there will be much over there that's dry except for the 11 wall.

Mj

Post by **rat-baby** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 3:56 pm

Heres the beta. boring and stupid (wild yet tasty) is stupid. Sex farm, one of the best damn 12b's in the red. When you go out there do sex farm first, you love it.

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 4:22 pm

I haven't been on Sex Farm (I've heard it's awesome) but Wild Yet Tasty is a cool climb. Personally, I think it's a soft 12a. It's easy climbing up to the third or fourth clip (the one with the hueco next to it) and I recommend using the crimps above the hueco and just left of the bolt to make the clip (not the sidepull in the hueco). The next few moves is the crux and it's just a crimp, crimp, and a throw to a jug. It's over from there except for the run-out pump to the anchors. It'll be bone dry and I think Sex Farm stays dry too. There are also the 12's at Military that stay dry it you want to hit them while you're in the area.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Mon Nov 04, 2002 5:04 pm

Hell yeah! Thanks for the beta! I am pretty stoked to get out there, I just hope I can avoid freezing the boys off. Hopefully all this doom and gloom will miss us tomorrow and I won't have to trudge through knee deep mud either.

Mj

Post by JR » Mon Nov 04, 2002 8:35 pm

I thought the crimping around the hueco was way easier to get to the clipping hold(Wild yet tastey).

Sex Farm is completely different, steep pumpy climbing. Sex Farm is a must do. You could warm up for it on wild yet tastey.

Have fun.

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Nov 05, 2002 12:44 am

Sex Farm rocks my world. Be sure to double pop when you're reaching out left right before the last bolt otherwise you'll end up all crossed up wishing you had your right hand in the jug next to your left hand.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:07 am

Well sh*t. I went climbing today, but it was raining so frikkin much we just went to Torrent. We sure as hell didn't want to hike to LF with it pissin the way it was. Thanks for the beta though. Hopefully the weather will be better this weekend and I will bust my ass on out there.

Mj

Post by **Johnny** » Mon Nov 11, 2002 1:53 pm

Hey Sik,
Even I've done Wild, Yet Tasty without beta. I guess by definition, that makes it a consensus 11d, so I wouldn't bother getting on it for the numbers. Play it safe and work on Golden Touch. It's consensus 12.