Cleaning Anchors

Post by **Steve** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:42 pm

Daisy with locker and a sling, draw, or whatever is hanging on the anchor. I always try to have two independent leashes (one on each bolt).

When rigging a rap, I will try and thread the rope through the anchors (if it will fit) and pull a whole bunch through before tying a keeper knot and untying from my harness. Rigging a rappel on a sport route takes a little longer and can be kinda akward, but saves on anchor wear.

Post by **Eric** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:46 pm

use clove hitches instead of knots, easier to tie and untie when you are just securing the rope so you don't drop it.

Post by **Christian** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 8:49 pm

2- 2 ft slings girth hitched to belay loop and 2 locking carabiners attached to anchors

Post by **canadaclimbergirl** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:00 pm

Eric wrote:use clove hitches instead of knots, easier to tie and untie when you are just securing the rope so you don't drop it.

geess....get your own ideas....thats what I said in my post.

8)

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:09 pm

where are all the real sport climbers at? no one who is sending HARD stuff would ever carry two daisy chains and two locking biners to the top of their climb...what is it..training weight? why not just use the two draws on top of the climb, and if you are anal, oppose them on the chains? two locking biners is WAAAAAAAAAY over doing it...

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:15 pm

I'm not a hard climber, nor am I a sport climber - though I do climb sport routes. Having 2 daisies and 2 lockers on a long trad route at a hanging belay makes me feel safe. My daisies w/lockers never leave my harness, so no matter what I'm climbing, I have them. I also happen to like the redundancy for cragging.

Anyone who rushes the anchor cleaning process is asking for trouble, whatever their preferred method. Criticising people for doing what makes them feel safe is completely lame - or you are trolling again.

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:19 pm

sandy, what me..trolling? never....

the thread asked how people clean sport routes. that's what I am addressing.
I use two lockers on multipitch trad.

Feeling safe is a relative process as we all know. reverse and oppose used to be the accepted standard "in the day", so I wouldn't call it unsafe.

Post by **Huggybone** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:21 pm

When you are really a hard climber, you just leave your draws. Say, has anybody snatched the litter off thirsting skull yet?

Post by **dhoyne** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:21 pm

Meadows wrote:I just use 2 draws. Should I use a sling instead?

Draws work, but many times it's nice to have the added length of a sling, or even better if you own them daisys since they're very quickly adjustable.

Oh, and I always rap down, lowering is bad for the anchors.

Post by **rhunt** » Tue Nov 18, 2003 9:32 pm

pigsteak wrote:where are all the real sport climbers at? no one who is sending HARD stuff would ever carry two daisy chains and two locking biners to the top of their climb...what is it..training weight? why not just use the two draws on top of the climb, and if you are anal, oppose them on the chains? two locking biners is WAAAAAAAAAY over doing it...

Yo man I'm with you....

Unless you play on jumpin around and freaking out when you are in direct to the anchor...two draws will work just fine.

Keep it simple and do what works for you.