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Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Power2U
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

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Post by Power2U »

Anyone been on this 11b, cough cough, at the Gold Coast? It is a very cool climb on cool yellow gold rock just to the right of the really hard stuff. I personally thought it was harder than Hippocrite & Scar Tissue, the two short 12a's at The Zoo....definitely harder than Hardcore Jollies...I am trying to think of other short routes to compare it to.

What do you think?

By the way if you haven't seen the Gold Coast and you think The Red doesn't have any variety check this thing out. This chunk of rock is so unique and different, not to mention beautiful...the colors are amazing!

SHM should check these lines out for some steep non technical jug hauling :lol:
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
tomdarch
Posts: 2407
Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2002 9:22 pm

Post by tomdarch »

When you say 'harder' than those 12s, do you mean 'overall' harder, or 'crux moves' harder?

For what it's worth, the current online guide listing includes the note "Grade may be innacurate." :lol:

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... hp?id=1072
Power2U
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

Post by Power2U »

I think that this climb is, "overall harder".

I was just trying to see if anyone else had been on this climb and what their thoughts were.
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
bigwhipper
Posts: 13
Joined: Wed Jul 02, 2003 11:39 pm

Post by bigwhipper »

The consensus grade I have heard a few times for that route is 11d, its definitely a sandbag for 11b.
RTimm
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 3:00 am

Post by RTimm »

I've heard 11d also.
Power2U
Posts: 562
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:18 pm

Post by Power2U »

Thanks for the input. It is definitely solid even for 11d... but 11d is reasonable.

It is amazing how grades affect your expectations on a climb. I got onthsi thing thinking 11b no problem.... as I was climbing it I kept expecting the next hold to be good..you know... "11b, this thing has to have some big holds on it somewhere."

Then when I got to the shelf above the last bolt and it was a sloper I was shocked. My brain was prepared for better holds and when they weren't ther I didn't know what to do :D If the climb had a harder grade I would have expected worse holds and been better off...funny how that works :lol:
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
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