Recommended 5.11? Climbs

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
GWG
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Recommended 5.11? Climbs

Post by GWG »

I've hit a ceiling on what I've lead and want to punch through to the next level. Next time I head down, I want to get on some "easier" 5.11 sport climbs.

Any suggestions would be helpful. When I first wanted to try a 5.10, Pogue Ethics was the route of choice as the first attempt at a new grade. It was a real confidence builder.

Thx!

GWG
SikMonkey
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Post by SikMonkey »

Vandalism (Oil Crag) and Whippingstock (Drive By) are both pretty easy 11a's and great climbs to boot. If you want something steeper, go do Encore and Opening Act at the Arena.

Mj
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Meadows
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Post by Meadows »

But isn't Pogue really a 5.9? Just a drawn out 5.9?

At Military:
Another Doug Reed Route 11b (it's an 11 just in the beginning it seems)
Of course there is Fuzzy Undercling 11b, a 3-star route
dhoyne
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Post by dhoyne »

Armadillo at the Zoo is a 2* 5.11a that's pretty fun. Not too bad. I personally think it's easier than JailBird which only goes as a 10.d, but you know RRG ranking system: 5.9-, 5.10a, 5.9+, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.11a, 5.10d....
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff »

There are alot of routes that aren't in the Southern Region that fit your bill.
I only say that 'cause I think it's a good time to avoid that area for awhile...at least that's what I am doing.
Check out the 11's at Lady Slipper. Oz, Ruby Slippers, and that other one up there.
Super Dario at 11c is really much easier.(SkyBridge) And to finish your pump get on King Me.
allah
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Post by allah »

Transworld at the lode, is a pretty soft 11a, um what else, i would have to say that convicted would be a good 10d for ya Just go to the lode and ask someone where these routes are and they will help ya out
Power2U
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Post by Power2U »

What allah meant to point you to was Burlier's Bane (11c), piece of cake :D

No really...some of the best 11's in the Gorge are at Torrent... Bandolier is a super classic 11a. I also second the recomendation of Super Dario(11a really, even though it is 11c in the guide), King Me(solid 11b) and you could do Jack in the Pulpit(10d) while you're at Sky Bridge, too.

Have fun and keep working your way up the ladder.
Lest we all forget... climbing is a mostly meaningless pursuit that we do for fun.
GWG
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Post by GWG »

I've got my future tic list thanks to the input from you. This is one of the reasons I visit this site. Ask for some direction and there are lots of folks willing to share there expertise.

Power2u, I got Jack in the Pulpit last summer first time on it. It's all there within me, it's just a matter of actually doing it.

At the gym, I've done several that were rated in the 11s however that's comparing apples and oranges.

Bottom line for me is that if I ever stop having fun climbing, it's time to try something new. I don't see that happening though!
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kato
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Post by kato »

A couple that weren't mentioned:

If you're at Military, cruise over to LF and do Aqueduct Pockets. It's a boulder problem to a jug haul.

At Fantasia, Count Floyd is an interesting route. Pump up to a no hands rest, then a quick mantle to the finish.
t bone
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Post by t bone »

Electric Cowboy, Delusions of Granduer at purple valley. Smoking Joe and Eye of the Needle at Funk are few more 11b s not mentioned.
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