Good easy beginner lead.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Thu Oct 30, 2003 8:17 pm

Ok, I'll probably get some flak for this, but I'm just going to ignore it.

I did Razorback (5.6 at Pebble Beach) a week or so ago. I had walked by this route a hundred times at least and never considered it. One day I got the urge and ran up to do it. I only had about an hour to climb and made it up to the wall, climbed the route and was back to the car in 50 minutes.

It gets no stars in the guidebook but I thought it was really fun. The gear is good, the rock is good and the climbing is pretty straightforward. The downfalls seem to be that its not a particularly pretty route and its kinda short.

If you're looking for a good (maybe not first) beginner trad lead this might be a route to consider.

It also looked like there was a second chimney pitch to the summit. Anyone ever checked it out?

Post by **GWG** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:29 pm

No flak being thrown from me. I appreciate this sort of information since I'm just starting out on trad and it helps to know some of the easier leads.

GWG

Post by **lordjim_2001** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 1:55 pm

I get to be the total Gumby here and do a "Dude what size pro you need for this" so I can see if I have enough already to jump on it the next time I'm outside.

Post by **Christian** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 2:25 pm

Thanks WT I will check it out. We climb for fun, we spray for ....

Post by **captain static** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 5:18 pm

I used Beachcomber at Pebble Beach as a first trad lead for a friend that I was mentoring. What is fun about this route is that it tops out.

Post by **Steve** » Fri Oct 31, 2003 6:41 pm

I once did Razorback when I first started leading trad...it was a pile. I seem to remember getting about 7 or 8 feet up and having this shelf/edge I was standing on collapse out from under me. Luckily I had a nice jam as I had no gear in. I promptly fixed a cam and climbed the rest of that mossy choss pile. A real Gorge classic.

Post by **ynot** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 1:03 am

I did Beachcomber a couple years ago and the slings looked ancient then.Maybe they have been replaced ,I don't know.

Post by **Wicked Tribe** » Sat Nov 01, 2003 7:49 pm

I enjoyed Beachcomber as well. The second pitch is fun.

For Razorback I used handsized cams and smaller. Its short so you don't need a ton. A set of stoppers, a #.5, #.75, #1 and #2 cams would probably be enough. Take some webbing or a cordelette to sling the tree for a TR and then just rap from the tree to get down.

As for Steve's collapsing ledge...everything seemed very solid to me. Steve was probably doing his part as a RRG local to clean up the chosspiles to get them in shape for the visiting climbers.

I felt very good on the route, and I onsight roped-soloed it in my approach shoes.

Post by **ynot** » Mon Nov 03, 2003 3:01 am

Team Smoke Break did razorback on Sat. It may be good for teaching new traddies about rotten spots. it's not a choss pile though,just a couple spots. Kinda short . Big Money was way more exciting for sure. Watching Yas whip on Brontasuarus was the highlite of the day.Never heard girls curse at 10c decibels before.