Settin boulder problems

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
Christian
Posts: 1722
Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2003 1:57 pm

Post by Christian »

I want to go climbing sideways on Halloween dressed as a hippy guy
I try to be a good man but all that comes
of trying is I feel more guilty.
Ikkyu
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Don't set problems individually. Just randomly put up all your holds in the sickest positions you can imagine. Then create your problems out of the randomness.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
merrick
Posts: 1678
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2002 10:01 pm

Post by merrick »

i always tried to set lines that were not obvious. you would have a series of holds and it was not clear how to put the line together. if you figured out the sequence the line went. of course that doesn't work if you are setting routes for yourself.

work on your weakness. if there is a hold you hate and you have a hard time pulling on. put it smack in the middle of your problem.
Back from the Dead!
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kato
Posts: 879
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 12:54 pm

Post by kato »

Gretchen:
Setting at an angle increases the effective steepness of the problem and allows for a longer problem! It's for your own good, honest!
Gretchen
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:16 pm

Post by Gretchen »

That's what you keep telling me! I just can't convince myself past five moves :P
Just genuinely disengenuous.
andy_lemon
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 2:22 am

Post by andy_lemon »

lots of off balance moves are what I like. I also like to use mono's.
Not a bitch.
DaggerX

Post by DaggerX »

Im manage a bouldering gym here at school in CO, if I am setting route for anyone I usally set up moderate problems with a mix of holds. But when I set them up for me and the other harder boulder's to play on, latley I have been setting up slopper problems on the 45% :twisted: overhang wall and reachy crimpers on the 20% overhang wall :twisted: .

DaggerX
DaggerX

Post by DaggerX »

Oh yea, jibs and tracking only for feet. Unless you are a real bad one and only liked taped feet ect...

DaggerX
jabbathehut
Posts: 161
Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 7:17 pm

Post by jabbathehut »

If you are having trouble setting routes with new movement try setting a basic problem, with plenty of holds. Then climb it using the simplest way. Then remove every hold you used doing it the simplest way. If you still can do the problem easily remove more holds. You can easily end up with somthing very contrived, at first its hard to get motivated to do moves that are unatractive or "jacked" but it will teach your body new things!!! give it a whirl.
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