Settin boulder problems

[Huggybone]

So I'm going to take down all my holds and set all new problems. All of my problems seem to focus on a few things:

Contact strength
High step foot matching
Bad holds
Sometimes I just grab a buch of different hold, until I find a combination that makes me say 'hmm, that would be strange'

Sort of a rut.
How do you set your problems?

[rhunt]

slopers, pinches and underclings...safe holds.

Jibs and tracking for feet...ONLY!

[Gretchen]

Think of moves on routes that you find very challenging and try to recreate those moves so you can wire them. Work the weakness right out of there!

[SCIN]

I like to set routes where you are forced to use a hold more than once. For example, hitting a hold, bumping your hand up, then bringing your other hand to the hold you just bumped from. I like using incut crimps too with long throws to them. I'm talking throws to where you're forced to cut your feet. Something feels cool about launching to a nice edge and catching it.

Man, setting problems is so cool.

[littlefeller]

Keep your feet small.If you're grabbing 5.12 holds,your feet shouldn't be on 5.8 holds.

[Gretchen]

No doubt, I usually feel more comfortable on a smaller foot hold.

[J]

I usually find a pile of holds that I really like to climb on and set with them. I know of setters that think of single awsome moves and then build onto that.

[garageclimber]

what i like to do when i set is find a bucket of holds that i would like to use and picture in my head as i choose each one how i would like to go to it and then put the moves together as i put the route up.

[kato]

Much depends on whether you are setting for yourself, or for others. I try to make sure that no one move on the problem is more that a grade and a half off the overall difficulty. Try to make them height independant. Avoid ladder-like left-right-left-right problems. Make sure there is at least one or two technical moves, i.e. highstep, dropknee, heelhook, undercling, etc. It seems like people enjoy them more if they are more technically difficult than physically difficult.

[Gretchen]

Yeah Kato but you always make us climb sideways! And you hardly set feet, always making us match!