Buildering

Post by **Legion** » Tue Nov 05, 2002 2:36 am

Just found a fun problem in a parking structure.
10' of perfect hands up to a gap formed between a support column and an exterior wall leads to an I-Beam. Hand traverse/campus across the I-Beam 20' to a fist crack formed by another support column. Downclimb the fist crack and reach out to a layback crack on the other side of the column. Follow it up about 10' and then reach way up and pinch the underside of a 6" wide concrete rib. Crank off the pinch to a skinny fingercrack (crux!) At this point you are entering a squeeze chimney that is formed between the exterior of the structure and the exterior of a stairwell. Arm/knee bars will take up about 12' where you can mantle over a wall to the second level, or you can keep going to the top floor (gulp)

I haven't sent it yet. I think it is probably 11a or 11b. The pinch move to the fingerlock is pretty sick unless I find a different sequence.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 12:28 am

man, that sounds rad! seriously. i've always had fun wasting my time climbing man-mad structures and then spraying about it on a bbs. that's awesome legion. really!

when i lived in oklahoma city during high school, we had this killer problem on the federal building. 150' of thin hands (.75 to 1 camalots). of course we were all too scared to go above about 15'. anyway, it was pretty cool. the same problem later turned in to this bad ass one move mantle problem on to a jumble of broken boulders. now that problem my friend, we all topped out. probably about B3.

where is that parking structure legion? in lexington?

Post by **Legion** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 2:55 am

Thanks, man. good to get some support from the spraying community. After a while spraying about actual climbing just becomes so tiresome. Nobody pays any attention to it, anyway. It's refreshing to try something new. Maybe it will pay off in the future if I decide to do some spraying about actual climbing.
Lexington? bzzzzztt. Nice try, but if I were in Lexington I wouldn't be climbing cracks in parking ramps. If you want to come try to send this thing you can PM me since access is kinda sensitive. I'll take you out there and show you my projects. There's still a 50' aid line out a roof that might go free by someone who calls .75 camalots thin hands. (yeah, if you can chimney in a fist crack!)

Post by **andy_lemon** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 6:49 pm

Wish I could find hand/finger cracked parking structures in the flatland... Instead I'm stuck climbing the brick on the outside of my house, you don't get very good foot holds, no pro, I'd say 10ish. Plus my landlords office is made of stone, I actually have video footage of me falling from the 2nd floor of her office. Kind of cool.

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 7:23 pm

well what is thin hands? i always thought it was where you're hands don't go all the way in, but just about half way down your palm. .75 is thin hands to me.

Post by **Legion** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 9:22 pm

that is cool.
were you using thin hands on wtok? isn't that .75 sized?

Post by **Horatio Felacio** » Wed Nov 06, 2002 11:56 pm

the first two or three moves is thin hands .75 or #1 then it goes to #1 friends in the middle to blue or yellow tcu's towards the end, back to #1 friend size at the end. man, if it was .75, it would be .11 a.

Post by **Legion** » Thu Nov 07, 2002 4:31 am

that's kinda what I was thinking. what the heck do you do when it pinches down to blue tcus?

Post by **Legion** » Thu Nov 07, 2002 4:39 am

Legion made the second known ascent of a 25' stone wall inside the food court of university tonight.
The route follows crimpy granite edges up a man made stone wall found in the eastern portion of the Cirque of the Fast Food Restaurants to a lieback move off a jug to a thin finish leading to the glass ceiling.
This ascent was witnessed by his spotter as well as at least one foreign student who was completely bewildered by this strange display.
It was initially believed that this was a first ascent, however, the first ascent party later learned that the route had been climbed c. 1995 by an eariler party.
Nonetheless, Legion was very pleased by his ascent and confirmed the previous parties rating suggestion of 5.6c ***

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Nov 07, 2002 1:05 pm

That does it, I'm going to see if I can find a good traverse on my house today. I have scaled the fireplace, inside, but the mantle move is only scary when I start wondering if my builder attached it half-assed like everything else in this shack. I'm thinking my Cobras will be the way to go for this project, primarily brick facade. Hmmm... eco chalk, or white? My neighbors are already convinced that I am a weirdo, but I wonder what the guys putting on the new gutters will think? Maybe I'll wait until they are done, or maybe I can get them to spot me!

Legion that's great!!