Good routes for practice falls

[laurenannhill]

Hello everyone!

I'm planning a trip to the Red this fall, and am wondering if anyone can suggest some good sport routes in the 10s, (or maybe low 11s), that are good for taking practice falls? I'm thinking, well bolted and slightly overhanging...

What do you think? This is the season that I will conquer this fear of falling business once and for all!

Thank you!

[Rx2Climb]

Johnny B. Good - 11a http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuid ... te&id=1314

Tall with easy (5.8 maybe easier) climbing for 50 feet. Then a severally overhung section of a few bolts to the anchors. I have purposely slacked climbers so they will take +30 ft whips on the route. Very clean falls. Best route to fall on in the red?

[DrRockso]

Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch

[laurenannhill]

Thank you! Super helpful!!

[Chiyram]

Does the grade change the fall some how? A local gym, if you have one, is a good place to take some practice falls. Then go to the Red to crush your projs with nerves of steel. Or like me, bring your nerves of yarn and hope they get strong.

[DrRockso]

I

Air Ride Equipped, Getting Lucky in Kentucky, Plate Tectonics, Dyno-mite and Black Powder at Great Arch

In regards to Getting Lucky in Ky and Plate Techtonics, I wouldn't mind falling on this route if it happened, becasue it is overhung a bit, but I wouldn't go there to practice falling. Those routes have very un-uniform faces and you could easily sprain an ankle if you hit in between any of the plates. Just my opinion.

If you're at The Gallery, +1 for Johnny B Good for open air practice falls, and then Preacher's Daughter has a nice clean face to practice coming into the wall. This one is just barely overhung. It's also one of my favorite routes near its grade. Super fun.

As a climbing guide I have had dozens of clients learning to lead climb take practice falls on Plate Tectonics and Getting Lucky, no sprained ankles yet. Perhaps you need a better belayer.

[Prog_Rocker]

What makes a practice lead fall different from a victory whip?

[DrRockso]

One is practicing for an inevitable normal part of sport climbing, the other involves getting several yards of extra slack from your belayer to make the fall unnecessarily long, no doubt a fun practice outside of Muir Unfortunately we have to deal with morons like these guys https://rockandice.com/videos/weekend-w ... 5-12a-rrg/ that cause rules like this to exist at areas like Muir.