centerfire, 11b or 11c?

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:21 pm

I don't know, Loren's kind of strict about where he lets me climb...

Post by **allah** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:24 pm

can we say WHIPPED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:31 pm

Yeah, it's really sad, allah... I'm really scared to approach him about it too! I mean what about MY projects?? What about ME? All he ever wants to do is bushwack miles to obscure trad crags so he can increase his hard crack count... it really hurts inside...

Post by **allah** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:34 pm

thats when you tell him that you are cutting him off, untill he lets you do your projects. Tell him "No hanky Panky till i send"

Post by **loren** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 3:54 pm

I didn't know it was a problem Yas. Maybe we could just talk about it in a... not so public setting. Why do you always have to embarrass me in front of all of my friends?

You know that the reason that I only do cracks is that I suck as a sport climber. Why do you have to point this out in public and make me look like an even bigger pussy? Even with Horatios old clothes I still have problems pulling 5.10+.

I wish you weren't always so hard on me.

Post by **Power2U** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:18 pm

It always seems that way doesn't it!

All the 5.12 and up sport climbers suck at trad and can barely climb a 10a crack...

While all the 5.11 tradies can barely climb a 10 sport climb

Why is that?

...actually don't answer that question.

Oh and as for the answer to the question on this post...Receiver is definitley the hardest climb on the wall...but really the entire wall a should be graded 11b and that's that....just like the entire 12 wall should be graded 12b...that would eliminate any confusion

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:23 pm

there is not a single climb on that wall harder than 11a... with chalk marks leading the way, how can you fail? if those "11's" are tough for you....you need to train more and quit complaining about the grades...

Post by **allah** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 4:44 pm

Everything on the 12 wall is 12a with an exception of bare metal teen, that thing feels like 13c

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 6:35 pm

lmao..surely you jest allah...bare metal is the only one I have done...

Post by **Yasmeen** » Wed Oct 22, 2003 7:35 pm

pigsteak wrote:there is not a single climb on that wall harder than 11a... with chalk marks leading the way, how can you fail? if those "11's" are tough for you....you need to train more and quit complaining about the grades...

Are you saying the only factor determining difficulty is finding your way up the route? On Centerfire, by the time you reach the technical crux (where, yes, there may be a lot of chalked holds, but only about 3 of them are worth using) you're already tired and then you have the pump crux right after it. On Receiver, by the time you reach the crux (which I considered technical and pumpy in this case, but maybe that's just because I couldn't reach the huge clipping ledge the way all the guys did and had to go out to the shitty and slopey/small holds out right) you're pretty tired and have to push through a pretty big pump to top out. I think those two routes are harder than 11a, and I think the same for Recoil-- while it may not be 11d, getting to the 2nd bolt is pretty technical (and fun, in my opinion) and getting to the anchors is a little more than 11a, too.