flying monkeys

Post by **Danny** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 9:16 pm

Everyone is saying this route is easy. Well, I guess, if you call cranking a roof on razor blade intermediates to get to a dull knife blade edge silver dollor sized "jug" easy, then, OK, it is freakin easy. What are you wankers doing -- the 5.9 version around the hueco?

Post by **Power2U** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 9:27 pm

Notice that it is still 12a in the online guide and in the printed guides for the Red so it couldn't be that easy

Although there definitely are some better holds than the ones you described using. They are more out left and the problem with finding them is that this route gets washed off all the time so the "good" holds aren't always chalked up.

Try to compare this to say...Blankety Blank, Skin Flute, Nolo Contendre or Go Easy Billy Clyde!... I think that is why it gets called easier b/c it is easier than these other 12a vert. routes. Just a thought.

Post by **t bone** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 9:38 pm

check pic in photo album

Post by **Artsay** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 10:27 pm

It felt like 11b/c when I did it and I ain't no rockstar. It's a bouldery first move out to a crimp out left and then the rest is 5.11 climbing.

Post by **SCIN** » Mon Oct 20, 2003 10:39 pm

I think for those of us who spend a couple of days a week in a bouldering gym, it will feel pretty easy. I think I've set that problem about 100 times with various holds (Crater, Climbit, etc.).

Post by **SCIN** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 2:45 pm

Yo Tim, I checked out the shot you posted of Flying Monkeys in the album. Yea, that's how I did it.

One thing is different though....
It's a lot easier when you wear shoes!

Post by **Danny** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:22 pm

Man, that tree is so much larger now

Post by **Danny** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:33 pm

Power2U wrote:Although there definitely are some better holds than the ones you described using. They are more out left and the problem with finding them is that this route gets washed off all the time so the "good" holds aren't always chalked up..

Yea, I was not out left like in the Tbone pic. My left hand was on a good edge where his crotch is and I could bump up right onto a nasty edge. Then convert my heelhook to a high step and try not to rip my finger tips off in the process. About 6 inches above that little edge is a little horn that seems pretty good. I hit it a couple times but couldn't stick it. It was fun to work on. Me and another dude (Scott) worked it till my finger sprang a leak.

Post by **t bone** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:11 pm

If you are good boulderer the first move might feel easier, maybe 11c. i took a friend who onsighted gung ho over to do it on the same day. He fell several times on the first move. Even when we bolted it jamie and rob t fell on there first attempt. I sent it on my first go.Anyways it is a fun route whatever the grade is.

Post by **SikMonkey** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:19 pm

It just depends on what your strengths are I suppose.

Mj