Coming to an end.

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Coming to an end.

Post by SCIN »

I love crack climbing. I love offwidths. I love placing gear.
I am getting sad because soon there will be no more cracks in the Red for me to do at my level of fun challenging trad climbing (5.10-5.11). There is nowhere to go after 5.11 trad because I've already done what few 5.12 cracks there are in the Red. Sure, I could work a few projects for the rest of my life and become a Red River Retiree Project Worker like so many sport climbers become but I don't want to do that.

I want to be able to go to the Red and leave having doing a few new 5.10/5.11 cracks. Soon that just won't be possible anymore. I'm getting upset. Is it time to move to Chattanooga and take on the beautiful sandstone walls of Tennesee?

What is a guy to do? Full time sport climbing? Never.
Climb all the routes over again? I already have with most of them.
Hike even further back into the woods? I don't have time for that.
Legion
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:15 am

Post by Legion »

Why Chattanooga? Sure its great, but if you are going to move why not go west?
Spray Lord
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Post by Spray Lord »

You're all washed up SCIN. It's time for you to hang up your long-sleave and your tape-gloves. When you do, I'll trade you a stick-clip and set of short-draws for all of your big gear.

Until then, perhaps Chattanooga is the place to be. I hear there are a lot of off-width roof-cracks in the area.
In case you misunderstood, I wasn't soloing in reality. I was just bouldering the beginning of that route. I see no glory in soloing... unless it gets you on the cover of Rock & Ice.
rhunt
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Joined: Thu May 29, 2003 12:02 pm

Post by rhunt »

Ever heard of the New River Gorge...I hear there are a few crack climbs there...
"Climbing is the spice, not the meal." ~ Lurkist
captain static
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Post by captain static »

Maybee it's time for you to take up big wall climbing & move to the Valley?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

To me, there's nothing better than sandstone. That's why Chattytown, Legion. I can't imagine ever leaving the Southeast unless it was for Vedauwoo.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
andy_lemon
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Post by andy_lemon »

Whatever dude... I know that you know that there is endless rock that has never been touched in and around the Gorge. You know that the freakin rock continues on for miles around that area. You know that there are several 11's 12's and 13's you have not done at Dawson Bluffs... you know Southern Illinois is a reasonable distance to travel for an offwidth. But instead of driving across a couple of states just to climb some trad, why not break out the ole machette, fill up the car with gas, and head into the Rhodo?
Not a bitch.
Gretchen
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Post by Gretchen »

You can't go Scin! I am going to park my pregnant butt on you to make you stay put & that is a threat!
Just genuinely disengenuous.
Danny
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 7:20 pm

Re: Coming to an end.

Post by Danny »

SCIN wrote:I am getting sad because soon there will be no more cracks in the Red for me to do at my level of fun challenging trad climbing (5.10-5.11).
Don't say that. You're hurting my ears and raising my fears. In the back of my mind I've worried about this eventuality but have happily bamboozled myself into thinking it was impossible. Just say "I was just kidding" so I can go on happily like before.
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SCIN
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Post by SCIN »

It's true Danny. Very true my good friend. The day will come.
We hike and hike in search of that one last route which we haven't done. Soon, the hikes become days.......then years. You go home on Sunday evening having done only 1 new route. Yes, that's ONE new challenging crack climb.

Andy, I'm well aware of the endless rock in the Red. I'm also well aware of the hours I've spent exploring that rock when I could've been climbing. Bushwhacking takes it's toll on you. I don't want to be another John Bronaugh...armed with a machete, compass and 4WD Vehicle just to find another good clean crack every weekend.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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