Preparing for my first outdoor climb

[BostonHammock]

Here's my advice:

1) Go with someone who is experienced, can lead for you, and teach you what you need to know (even if you think you already know it). Hire a guide if you don't have an experienced partner!. I wouldn't be leading my first time out on real rock. It's a very different experience than the gym.

2) Climb below your grade. Route finding, and recognizing holds can be a challenge when transitioning from gym climbing. You probably wont be climbing 10's, but there's lots of good 5.7-5.9 routes that should be doable for you on TR.

3) Learn how to a) clean an anchor, b)set up a safe, backed up rappel before you arrive! Don't lower, or top rope, off the anchors!



I highly recommend Muir Valley. Make sure to sign a waiver online, and have $10 cash for parking. There are a lot of really nice sport routes you should be able to climb. I like to bring new climbers to the Land Before Time wall. It has some shorter "warm up" 5.7 and 5.8 climbs that can be a bit challenging to start on the LH side, and two really fun 5.9's and a really good 5.8+ (one of the 5.9's has the anchors on a ledge. I don't recommend top roping this, but belaying from the top). Spend some time practicing anchoring in, cleaning, and setting up rappel on an anchor at the base of the wall.

After that head down to Bruise Brothers. It will be crowded. I recommend Ohio Climbing (not in the guide book) as a short, but fun 5.8, then Send Me On My Way (right next to Ohio Climbing) for a fun 75ft 5.9-.

[OMP]

Closest campground to Muir Valley is Fincastle. It's on Muir Valley entry road.

[Jeffrey Brown]

So, it looks like your trip is right around the corner. You still coming down?