One-Fall's got it- stop hooking your thumb over your fingers. Maybe to get you through a crux on a project, otherwise don't do it. All the strongest climbers I know climb this way. After watching countless climbers get into the sport and go through all stages of getting strong, I think crimping is one of the main contributors to getting tendonitis.
After awhile, you'll overcome that "lack of leverage" thing with strength. When you fire up and catch an edge with extended fingers, you'll develop the strength to just close them down on the crimp edge without needing the thumb. One important thing, don't rush it. Your muscles will get strong faster than your tendons. Give the tendons time to catch up.
Training open grip
Re: Training open grip
No chalkbag since 1995.
Re: Training open grip
Crimping = tendinitis??? Can you explain that one???
All the strongest climbers that I have seen excel at one grip or another. However, for the most part the best climbers crimp crimps, pinch pinches, open hand open hand holds, etc......
I know of no way to "don't rush it". Any climber that is progressing is going to be trying hard and will most likely injure themselves in one way or the other. Learn from the injuries and move on. Any old climber that thinks that they know the way to avoid all climbing related injuries forever is the same old climber that will hold you back from reaching your potential. Listen to your own body.
One more thing about the "thumb". It is technique just like any other. If you never learn it you will never be able to leverage (no pun intended) its benefits.
Hell, as long as we are talking about not wrapping the thumb. How about this pro wrapping the pinkie also?
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=angie+pa ... =146&ty=53
All the strongest climbers that I have seen excel at one grip or another. However, for the most part the best climbers crimp crimps, pinch pinches, open hand open hand holds, etc......
I know of no way to "don't rush it". Any climber that is progressing is going to be trying hard and will most likely injure themselves in one way or the other. Learn from the injuries and move on. Any old climber that thinks that they know the way to avoid all climbing related injuries forever is the same old climber that will hold you back from reaching your potential. Listen to your own body.
One more thing about the "thumb". It is technique just like any other. If you never learn it you will never be able to leverage (no pun intended) its benefits.
Hell, as long as we are talking about not wrapping the thumb. How about this pro wrapping the pinkie also?
http://www.google.com/imgres?q=angie+pa ... =146&ty=53
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tbwilsonky
- Posts: 868
- Joined: Sun Feb 15, 2004 9:38 pm
Re: Training open grip
yeah. tendonitis cause-effect analysis fail.
also thumb-hooking is just a way to get your thumb involved in the big win rather than having it watch while it's bros do all the work. it does load up the index finger pulleys something awful, but when the chips are down...
also thumb-hooking is just a way to get your thumb involved in the big win rather than having it watch while it's bros do all the work. it does load up the index finger pulleys something awful, but when the chips are down...
haunted.
Re: Training open grip
Is it a wrist flexibility issue or do you somehow just not pull on holds at that height??????>