Attention New School climbers

[will]

First off, I am a rude asshole, maybe that's why Jimmy lets me climb with him sometimes. I usually don't get as worked up as Will though, but I sympathize.
Last March on a cold and rainy day, I headed to the roof section at Chica Bonita where there was a gaggle of college kids. All the routes 'cept Dude Abides and Pocahantas Path were set with top ropes. I led Pocohantas and set a TR anchor so a friend could try climbing for the first time. Well the ringleader of the collegians came over and said they needed to get on that route. I looked around at all the other ropes and said "Looks like you own the place. We won't be long"...not the right thing to say. He says he's the guide for the Purdue climbing club and blah, blah, blah and they do so much for the gorge and blah............I don't give a shit if you built a goddam staircase at Muir, I just wanted to get my backpack saw out and slice some tendons on this card. Lucky for me and him, a coed needed a belay and I didn't have to go back to jail.
In defense of top roping, I am doing a lot more of it recently since I'm recovering from an injury. Also most multi pitches I have only led half because my partner and I swing the lead.
That was even considered proper climbing in the days of pitons. But climbing is personal for me so I wont be offended.
Also, I'll be at Emerald City in late November so watch out.

brutal !

[ynp1]

This thread is cool! It is kind of like the old days, but NOT! Lil Will ain't got shit on the old school posters here.

[DriskellHR]

Climbers no longer care about ethics, outdoor decorum or LNT principles.

Rule #1 was always "know where you are climbing, who's land you are on and what the guidelines, rules and regs are before you go.

Rule #2 your presence should not directly impact (within reason) other visitors or future visitors.

My .02cents worth

After that I could personally care less on how bad you fuck yourself up because your being an idiot. Just don't get blood on the crux holds.

[milspecmark]

sometimes after the blood gets sticky it helps

[LK Day]

"Finally I gave up and became a trad climber." I like that. Gear left on a trad route has always been fair game. It's called booty. Pull it all down and take it home with you. You have my permission. Tell 'em "Larry made me do it". If you're feeling extra special nice, you can let the dickwads know how they can get their gear back. Otherwise, have a garage sale. Stupid hurts....., and it can get expensive too.

[J_link]

"Finally I gave up and became a trad climber." I like that. Gear left on a trad route has always been fair game. It's called booty. Pull it all down and take it home with you. You have my permission. Tell 'em "Larry made me do it". If you're feeling extra special nice, you can let the dickwads know how they can get their gear back. Otherwise, have a garage sale. Stupid hurts....., and it can get expensive too.

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That's hilarious Larry. I thought the same thing - gears left on routes is booty - hell I got half my trad rack that way back in the day ( maybe even some of yours )

[LK Day]

You didn't build much of a rack on gear I left behind.
Nobody was better at cleaning gear than me. I was a notorious tight wad, if my second couldn't clean something I'd rap back down and get it myself. Other than a few rap slings on trees, I left next to nothing.