dfspau2 wrote:I believe the weight thing is kind of trivial... I've taken pre red point shits that weigh more that 6 draws (it's not like your carrying a full trad rack with you)... The extra move to hang the draw is what I believe makes a route (at or close to your red point limit) feel more difficult...
1. A bet that shit made your red point easier unless you take unusually airy, weightless dumps
2. You'll start to see the detrimental effect of that added weight when you start climbing routes longer than 4 bolts and anchors.
Well I always "set" my draws when I place them. Just like trad climbers do with nuts. I give them a few good pulls to make sure everything is working right, and this obviously makes hanging the draws easier. It is like pulling on a jug a few times, it gives me a slight rest.
I also, stick my middle figure in the carabiner when I clip it. Most think it just helps hold the biner still, but really I am pulling as hard as I can with that finger to keep me on route.
