Magnum Opus beta

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.
eduard
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:43 pm

Magnum Opus beta

Post by eduard »

I had a lot of trouble finding a clipping position for the 3rd bolt last weekend and would appreciate some beta. Do people clip it from the crimp where her left hand (I hope I'm remembering correctly and the last bolt she has clipped in the picture is the 3rd bolt) is or is there better beta?

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eduard
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Post by eduard »

Not sure why I can't reply to PM's, but I got a PM asking if 3rd bolt is the one before the ledge - no that's the 4th bolt, and I'm ok clipping that one (from the ledge).
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XplosionOflaver
Posts: 12
Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2011 10:27 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Post by XplosionOflaver »

I either clip from the crimp rail before the move out to the under-cling( from below), or clip after the under-cling move on the two pockets (waist high)
eduard
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Post by eduard »

I actually wasn't using the undercling and was instead going right hand to crimp above the bolt, then left hand up to a ticked slopey hold higher and left then moving right to the crux sequence, but I'll keep that beta in mind this weekend, thanks!
eduard
Posts: 10
Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2014 10:43 pm

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Post by eduard »

The heavily chalked pocket above the undercling worked really well for clipping, thanks! (I tried all the other suggested options and that worked best)
MrFizz
Posts: 21
Joined: Sun Aug 11, 2013 5:13 am

Re: Magnum Opus beta

Post by MrFizz »

Like my dad always told me when I started leading "When in doubt, run it out."
What would crush with Arnold's tank?
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