Pull ups

[tutugirl]

There should be one table for men and one for women...it would be nice to compare results...

[Ascentionist]

I knew a guy who could do a one-armed pullup before he started climbing and within six months he was knocking at the 5.12 door. At first he was literally hauling himself up stuff with his feet kicking in space. As his technique improved he jumped through the grades. It was incredible to watch him go from an ugly 5.11 onsighter to working 5.12 and eventually (very quickly) onsighting 5.12.

Best I can remember the very first 5.12 he got on he almost onsighted. He got it second go. He'd not been climbing a year.

I think there's a correlation if you have enough power, but you have to have it in spades.

[Rx2Climb]

I think the route definitely matters also. Overhung short routes, with big holds would definitely favor a powerful beginner, but might still be graded as difficult. As opposed to techie, long slab.

[Ascentionist]

interesting question, may be loaded to, when do you consider yourself a 5.13er

You may only consider yourself a 5.13 climber after you've worked a single route for more than 3 seasons while simulating each movement indoors and rehearsing the moves in the shower each night for 22 weeks. During the time of working the route you must ignore all other super fun routes which you could quickly bag and enjoy during a weekend while keeping your sites set on the glory and self confidence you will receive after sending that infamous 5.13 line. You must keep your eating down to the minimum amount as to not gain the additional pound which could possible keep you from sticking the "crux" move on the 5.13 line. The last requirement is to have a beta notebook containing each and every move of the 5.13 line so you don't forget it after trying it 125 times. Once you do finally send that 5.13 line, enjoy the pristine moment of quickly rushing to 8a.nu and redriverclimbing.com (do it from the cliff if you have internet access), searching for that 5.13 line, checking to make sure nobody called it "soft", and clicking the "submit" button with your mouse. Sit back and wait for the congratulatory Facebook comments from all of your "friends", my friend, because you are now a 5.13 climber.

Why can't I "like" this so all of my Facebook friends can see how witty you are?

[Ascentionist]

I think the route definitely matters also. Overhung short routes, with big holds would definitely favor a powerful beginner, but might still be graded as difficult. As opposed to techie, long slab.

Oddly enough that might be counter intuitive. The guy I'm referring to almost onsighted Tic-Tac_toe. After he was sending a lot of hard .11 and easy .12 overhanging routes I thought I would give him a taste of humble pie and took him to Emerald City. He onsighted every slab .11 there. Oz was the only route that gave him pause and he still nailed it.

[Rx2Climb]

That guy is a beast!

[lena_chita]

Has anybody actually bothered to look at the results?

Here is the summary:
1) hardly anyone at the Red climbs 5.10s. You should go to 5.10 wall to find some solitude in the upcoming months.
2) the fraction of people doing 11+ pullups is roughly the same at every grade.

(the second part is actually true, especially if you look at males. I think for females there would be a bit of a correlation. In my experience, a random average female walking into a climbing gym for the first time can do zero pullups, while a random average male first-time gym visitor can do a few pullups at least, with 10 pullups being not uncommon)

[Rotarypwr345704]

Yeah, but what if you can do 100 "pull ups?"

http://vimeo.com/24527538

And for the record, I counted zero...

[Bum]

I know this thread is very old but thought I would join in.

6'0 - 135lbs.
I can't do 10 real pull ups in a row.

I sport climb 11s.
Boulder 8/9+

[Rx2Climb]

Yeah, but what if you can do 100 "pull ups?"

http://vimeo.com/24527538

And for the record, I counted zero...

I too can hump the air 100 times in a row. Lets make a video of that.....

"first rule of cross fit: talk about cross fit"