Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

[DJB]

I like the updates. One correction, Kaleidoscope is at Drive By, not Marley.

[tyler.yarbrough]

... there's no rhyme or reason as to why i put bob marley on that. D'oh.

[vertical1]

Fire and Brimstone is greater than Breakfast Burrito just for the sake of repeatability. Breakfast Burrito is fun the first time, Fire and Brimstone is fun EVERYTIME! The same could be said about King Me over Amarillo Sunset, Whipstocking over Bathtub Mary, and Reliquary over Abiyoyo.

[hamsco]

IMHO Scabies is unworthy of any Love.

Better 9s abound
Slide
Dyn-o-mite
Send me on my way

[Willy]

Here are my top routes. Just for the heck of it..

5.3-Cavers Route
Do it on a hot summer day after a swim at Redneck Rock. Bring beer, the opposite gender, and enjoy the sunset.

5.4-5.5- Meh, idk

5.6-Diamond in the Crack
Repeat same as Caver's Route

5.7-Foxfire
Dirty Chossaneering but its long and adventurous.

5.8-Good Times
Not as aesthetic as Arachnid but I think the climbing itself is more fun and far more thought provoking than any sport route of the grade.

5.9-Jungle Beat
Long, adventurous, and the climbing is actually GOOD. Even diehard sporties should have at this one at least once.

5.10a-EGBG
Now that you're strong enough to put away the squeezys and widget jammers you can enjoy 100ft of big jugs and never worry about having the wrong size quickdraw. There's a crack right next door if you start to miss fiddling with gear anyway.

5.10b-Thrillbillies
Sleeper classic. All the good qualities of Boltergeist (long, techy, tops out) with better movement and its not bolted for weenies.

5.10c-No Sleep Til Campton
Its rated 10b on here but I believe its 10c in the print guide?? Either way its 10c in my book and a stellar long and gorgeous route with a great view that gets very little attention.

5.10d-Fairweather Friend
One of the few routes in the gorge I've climbed more times than I can count. Forgettable start up to perfect golden rock that goes from slab up to an obtuse dihedral of sorts with jugs. Breakfast Burrito might be better but its already been mentioned a lot.

5.11a-Toker
Cool start to quality moderate RRG jug hauling

5.11b-Prime Directive
So much to choose from here...King me and Amarilllo are the obvious choices for most but I found Prime Directive to be far more engaging than either of them. Climactic Crush is pretty damn good to.

5.11c-No Place Like Home
Nothing comes close but I think Bozo's Bogus Booty Biner should also be mentioned as a somewhat overlooked and absolutely stellar climb for the movement alone

5.11d-The Infidel
I don't climb much at this grade but the only other route I can think of that is better isn't fully accessible just yet

5.12a-The Gift
I couldn't dream of a more perfect piece of rock, except for maybe Swedish Fish.

5.12b-Deep Six
Long, daunting, crimpy, juggy, long reaches, well spaced bolts, the works!! This route is perfect.

5.12c-Hangover
Haven't been on it but I've already decided I will be working the snot out of it come this Spring.

5.12d..... Too weak, must stop here

[dustonian]

Hangover is really friggin good--and solid for the grade... even if you lay down like i did haha

[Willy]

Sounds like my kind of beta! Are there knee bars to be had as well?

[dustonian]

Haha as a matter of fact, yes... you clip the bolt just before the crux off a perfect right kneebar...

bt.jpg (28.31 KiB) Viewed 7853 times

[One-Fall]

I don't believe you can do a "best of the grade" in the Red for 11d, 12c or 13b. The deck is too heavily stacked at these three choke points.

Willy, good call on Tackett's route. That would for sure make my best of list.

[whoneedsfeet]

From my very limited experience on more overhung 11Ds I would have to say Goldrush, Sport for brains, grumpalump, and Gov't cheese are some of the ones I've had the most fun on. Very classic Red climbing styles while still staying fun/interesting. Some obscure/limited access but still worth getting to. Lee I agree maybe break them down into further sub categories to fit the style certain persons are looking for.