Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

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dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian »

Agree on 12c, but it is a packed grade in the Red: Steelworker, Mosaic, Belly of the Beast, Hang Over, Super Slab, Astrodog, and Bush League are all in there IMO. Also Big Money Grip, Blue Eyed HJ, and Ale 8 for 12b, Bare Metal, Supafly, Wildfire, Swahili Slang, or Bloodline for 12a, Infidel, Ethics Police, or Fibrulator Direct for 11d (All Things is pretty mediocre and short really), and Banshee or Crown of Thorns for 11c. For 5.10 and below, there are dozens of trad lines better than most of the routes. listed... B3, Inhibitor, and Day Tripping put the rest to shame at those grades. Also, Super Dario is a much better 11a than Bathtub and probably Jack in the Pulpit or Fire and Brimstone for 10d over BB with its easy start, poison ivy no-hands, and recent upgrade from 10c. And for that matter, probably Loompa or Banjolero over Thunderclinger.
nik
Posts: 81
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2011 3:16 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by nik »

pogue ethics is a much better rock climb than creature feature, imo. creature feature is two bolts of awkward, polished slab to 3-4 fun roof-ish moves, to walking up a jug ladder. pogue ethics on the other hand is a beautiful, long line with interesting holds and terrific movement really from start to finish.
tyler.yarbrough
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:42 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough »

IMO I honestly had way more fun on Bathtub than I did on Super Dario aside from the flake feature up high which was amazing. Also, didn't have a wonderful, memorable experience on Jack in the Pulpit or F+B...maybe I need to revisit. Wildfire is one badass mother of a line, and Thunderclinger got thrown out there as a seldom done, but underrated route. That thing was so much fun, wanted to bring some more attention to a great line. Bare Metal probably does need to be on the list despite a personal vendetta against that rig, also considered Hippo and Scar tissue as a team... because together they are about 1 RRG route length.
shadow.ayala
Posts: 8
Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:43 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by shadow.ayala »

No one knows about it yet but 'Grim Reaper' @the Graveyard in Miller Fork is easily one of the best .12a in the gorge.
Nagypapa @military has the best climbing of any route I have been on in the red.
My project @Beer Trailer will be an undeniable classic @.13b or c, once I have completed it. No rests, power endurance. The 'Golden Boy' of the Beer Trailer.
Wolf
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:14 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf »

I doubt that All Things Considered is mediocre, although I haven't done it. Dave the Dude is probably better than it or any other 11d in the Red, though.
http://contributor.yahoo.com/user/496691/daniel_beck.html
Wolf
Posts: 363
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2005 1:14 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by Wolf »

dustonian wrote:Agree on 12c, but it is a packed grade in the Red: Steelworker, Mosaic, Belly of the Beast, Hang Over, Super Slab, Astrodog, and Bush League are all in there IMO. Also Big Money Grip, Blue Eyed HJ, and Ale 8 for 12b, Bare Metal, Supafly, Wildfire, Swahili Slang, or Bloodline for 12a, Infidel, Ethics Police, or Fibrulator Direct for 11d (All Things is pretty mediocre and short really), and Banshee or Crown of Thorns for 11c. For 5.10 and below, there are dozens of trad lines better than most of the routes. listed... B3, Inhibitor, and Day Tripping put the rest to shame at those grades. Also, Super Dario is a much better 11a than Bathtub and probably Jack in the Pulpit or Fire and Brimstone for 10d over BB with its easy start, poison ivy no-hands, and recent upgrade from 10c. And for that matter, probably Loompa or Banjolero over Thunderclinger.
Are you saying that B3 and Inhibitor are 5.10, or did you mean to say that at 11b and below the trad lines are better?
http://contributor.yahoo.com/user/496691/daniel_beck.html
hamsco
Posts: 271
Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:16 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by hamsco »

Central Scrutinizer for 5.9 (So it's mixed, big deal)
Brown Eyed Girl for 10
Bandolier for 11a

For an 8 go climb Arachnid , cause it's so much fun !
No creeds, manuals, or special translations
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by dustonian »

Oh yeah, good point Wolf... 11b and below then... And Bandolier! Good call Hammon... and Centerfire for mid-11 as well.
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One-Fall
Posts: 843
Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 12:27 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by One-Fall »

So the OP's list is good and talking about those climbs over pizza will give you lots of street (rhodo) cred.
However, as a rebuttal, I present for your approval, my list of fantastic climbs that no visiting or primarily gym climbers will know/care about. Be warned that this list will not elevate you in anyone's eyes, and in fact will likely have the opposite effect.
Without further adieu, The Uncool Kids List:

5.9 Scabies
10a Palm Friction
10b Motor Booty Pimp Affair
10c Return to Sender
10d Toxic Avenger
11a Drip Wire
11b Hen-ry!
11c Explanatory Gap
11d Foot Jive
12a Tabernacle
12b Special Impetus
12c Techno Destructo
12d Wicked Games
13a Zendebad
13b Code Red (I don't want to hear 12d, those crimps were small).
Can't we all just get along?
tyler.yarbrough
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:42 am

Re: Top Routes for the Grade at the RRG

Post by tyler.yarbrough »

I honestly didn't have a great time on bandolier -- probably because it was 31 degrees outside and I couldn't feel a damn thing. That being said, the list has been updated with a lot of feedback from all over the place, the response has been pretty awesome. http://www.elementalclimbingclub.com/bl ... e-by-grade

Most everything now has two routes for each grade, although the uncool kids list hasn't yet been taken into consideration...could be a dark horse.
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