Excalibur

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
Wicked Tribe
Posts: 469
Joined: Fri Jun 06, 2003 8:25 pm

Post by Wicked Tribe »

The end of the branch was broken off. Its either rotted away or someone has snapped it. That route rocks sooo much. It was way cooler than I remebered it being...except for the last five choss feet. There's still no gear and the top out sucks.

Jesse and Dwayne both thought I was really lucky to have missed the ledge in the alcove. When I came to a halt I was eyeballing my #1 TCU in the splitter fingercrack below the alcove. A #2 TCU in the roof of the alcove caught me. I love my Metolius TCUs.
Do Not Spray Next 300 Feet
Dwayne
Posts: 56
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 8:56 am

Post by Dwayne »

Steve, Chis told me you lead it. That rock is so soft, two pieces blew when he took it. He'll get it next time for sure.
captain static
Posts: 2438
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm

Post by captain static »

Glad to see people getting on and enjoying LLT. I remember on the FA sticking in a #1 wired hexcentric in the crack just above the alcove and commenting to Jerry Bargo, my belayer, "watch me, this is triple P" (for the uninitiated, triple P means purely psychological protection). I then gingerly positioned my self to move out of the alcove, reached up into a solid finger lock, and sent. Just before this I had been in a sport climbing phase and was psyched on sending this fine trad line. Thus the inspiration for the route name. Also, my thanks to Bubb & Bargo for finding this area and scoping this line.

I would also encourage people to climb my route Eagle's Gift up Gladie Creek, off the Sheltowee Trace. Though the length of the approach and remoteness makes it somewhat of an adventure climb, I have had good reports from those who have made the effort. Also, the top-out on this route is sweet.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Steve
Posts: 1745
Joined: Fri Sep 27, 2002 1:34 am

Post by Steve »

Right on WT! TCUs are good. You are lucky to have fallen past the alcove, good belay, I don't remember the rock being soft, just the tree in my way.
I see they are still lopping off mountains in Eastern Kentucky. Electricity isn't cheap.
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ynot
Posts: 6432
Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

What was the biggest pro that you all had at the time? There are about 3 chimneys I am guessing havent been done,along the way.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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