okay...i just pulled up the testing data again and the fixe bolt data is gone.
i bet fixe goons made him pull it with a threat of legal action if he didn't for some kind of defamation of their product.
rick, you don't have to go into detail, but if they threatened you...i think we should know so i know which letters to write and which companies to avoid.
possum2082 wrote:okay...i just pulled up the testing data again and the fixe bolt data is gone.
i bet fixe goons made him pull it with a threat of legal action if he didn't for some kind of defamation of their product.
rick, you don't have to go into detail, but if they threatened you...i think we should know so i know which letters to write and which companies to avoid.
No threats. Removed data irrelevant to glue-in bolt testing - the subject of the post.
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
i see what you are saying. i don't believe it's necessarily irrelevant due to the fact that the good ol standard 5 piece is what most of us are used to and a good frame of reference, but i get you.
The strength of a newly placed plated 5-piece setup in good rock is fairly irrelevant relative to their poor durability & susceptibility to corrosion. Plated hangers are a particularly bad choice in the Red.
In the construction industry where this type of epoxy is utilized the most, they typically claim a 20 year life expectancy on the epoxy but you won't find this printed anywhere. To remove the epoxy anchors you just have to heat up the bolt and twist. I think they are great in most applications. They still scare me in a roof since gravity would work against the installer and the big dig tragedy as an example. Most engineers will only use epoxy anchors that are in a shear mode and not so much in tension.
TradMike wrote:In the construction industry where this type of epoxy is utilized the most, they typically claim a 20 year life expectancy on the epoxy but you won't find this printed anywhere. To remove the epoxy anchors you just have to heat up the bolt and twist. I think they are great in most applications. They still scare me in a roof since gravity would work against the installer and the big dig tragedy as an example. Most engineers will only use epoxy anchors that are in a shear mode and not so much in tension.
One of the lessons learned from this incident: Make sure you understand the basics of potential polymer failure, such as susceptibility to creep under long-term tensile loads. However, glue-in bolts used in a climbing route application are not "susceptible to creep under long-term tensile loads" because they are simply not under long-term tensile loads. Rather, they are loaded only occasionally. 99+ percent of their lives, they are under no load, hence very little creep.
We cannot change the cards we are dealt, just how we play the hand. - Randy Pausch
None are so old as those who have outlived enthusiasm. - Henry David Thoreau
Have you ever completed a test on the different adhesives, Mr. Weber? I'd be interested in seeing which glues hold the best using the same bolt. It would be nice to see if the quick set glues hold just as well as the glues that take a day or so to set up.
