LOLdustonian wrote:Actually I think Koenig & Souders hold the gavel and powdered wigs at present. Hackworth & Day lurk in the shadows, pulling strings and manipulating currencies. Gearing is bailiff.
Speak Up!
Re: Speak Up!
Re: Speak Up!
Had a fun adventure climb yesterday:
Me and my pal climbed Eagle Point Buttress in four pitches. We followed Foxfire for the first pitch, and from there just took the most attractive lines to the top - think we ended up bearing pretty far right of the route in the guidebook. A few good cracks were interspersed with some fun plated faces, small overhangs, and awkward moves. Trees were slung, torque-nuts were placed. One nasty fall proved the solid constitution of an anchor.
We walked off from the top four or five hours after starting - route finding and general shortcomings in climbing ability added quite a bit of time.
All in all a fun day of climbing!
Me and my pal climbed Eagle Point Buttress in four pitches. We followed Foxfire for the first pitch, and from there just took the most attractive lines to the top - think we ended up bearing pretty far right of the route in the guidebook. A few good cracks were interspersed with some fun plated faces, small overhangs, and awkward moves. Trees were slung, torque-nuts were placed. One nasty fall proved the solid constitution of an anchor.
We walked off from the top four or five hours after starting - route finding and general shortcomings in climbing ability added quite a bit of time.
All in all a fun day of climbing!
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Ascentionist
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:23 pm
Re: Speak Up!
It's hard to climb right of the route without being on the route. At least from the top of the first pitch. Most people get off route by climbing well left of the actual line up the center of the buttress.
From the top of the second pitch there are other options to the right (though little in the neighborhood of 5.7) but the second pitch is about as far right as you can get.
From the top of the second pitch there are other options to the right (though little in the neighborhood of 5.7) but the second pitch is about as far right as you can get.
There is no TEAM in I
Re: Speak Up!
Hmm, perhaps I was on the route. Hard to say, I didn't have the guidebook with me. The online guide says to bear left a few times, and I don't recall ever making any significant leftward motion. Either way, it was a good time.
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Ascentionist
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:23 pm
Re: Speak Up!
First pitch is wide crack behind a big tree that angles slightly rightward to a big vegetated leg. Second pitch is a low angle plated face that begins at the extreme right end of the big vegetated ledge. Second pitch ends at the extreme left end of another large ledge that you can walk off far to the right beyond the huge amphitheater, but there is a continuation of the ledge out left around a very exposed corner where a narrow ledge goes under and overhanging corner. The route traverses left there. You'd not forget it. (End of the traverse: https://picasaweb.google.com/ascentioni ... 5077739330 )
The traverse widens and you're on another vegetated ledge in the center of the buttress. Route basically goes straight up the center of the buttress but follows a crack that swings side to side a bit.
When the guidebook says "center of the buttress" it means the aspect that faces the river. Its the face on the buttress that is parallel to the tall and wide face to the left where the Dragon's Wing routes are located. The climb goes nowhere near the actual Eagle's Nest hueco nor does it face the big amphitheater to the right except that you get a peek of it at the top of the second pitch.
The traverse widens and you're on another vegetated ledge in the center of the buttress. Route basically goes straight up the center of the buttress but follows a crack that swings side to side a bit.
When the guidebook says "center of the buttress" it means the aspect that faces the river. Its the face on the buttress that is parallel to the tall and wide face to the left where the Dragon's Wing routes are located. The climb goes nowhere near the actual Eagle's Nest hueco nor does it face the big amphitheater to the right except that you get a peek of it at the top of the second pitch.
There is no TEAM in I
Re: Speak Up!
Good description. Yep, instead of doing that traverse left under an overhanging corner, we went pretty much straight up, allowing us a view of the amphitheater for the rest of the climb. I'd like to go back and try out the standard route next time.