Rebolting Effort Details - Yank the Mank!

[dustonian]

15 or so years in ideal placements, sometimes up to 20 in the extreme best-case scenario. However, some spots such as Bob Marley are showing extreme corrosion after only 5 years. The most important variable to consider seems to be the salt/mineral content of the rock, rather than water exposure. After this comes the seepiness of the rock under the surface. Combine high mineral content with seasonally heavy internal seepage, and even bolts that never see a drop of rain can turn to rust bombs in the course of a few seasons--Tacit and Toker are good examples of this, with extreme corrosion and heavy staining of the rock with rust. Overall, I would estimate the average lifespan for plated bolts in the Red is about 10-15 years, but individual variation is extreme depending on the chemistry of the rock at each placement. At the crazy rate that new routes go up around here, rebolting them all within a decade or two from now is not a realistic or aesthetic solution.

[ynp1]

Cool, thanks!

[whatahutch]

I, like ynp1, fund my own little projects and the stainless steel is too expensive. I know that I will have to rebolt routes in 4 to 10 years but that is what I have to do. Hopefully I will have a little more funds when it comes time to replace the plated bolts and can do it right with gluein SS. Please add me to the loop if a cheap alternative comes up.

[dustonian]

Props to Dru "Siked" Mack for replacing the badly worn draws on BOHICA. Thank you donors!

[Yasmeen]

Thanks, Dru! I heard he swapped them out while sending. Si[c]k[ed]!

[dustonian]

Thanks, Dru! I heard he swapped them out while sending.

lolz! No way he sent that day though, it wasn't nearly hot and humid enough for him to climb 5.13. To be fair though, he was sending up to the last bolt, when a rusty quicklink forced him to bust out the crescent wrench and he pumped out.